Saturday 31 January 2015

Today Is Beautiful, We Have Things To Do

January is a bit of a crap month, right? For me, it's mostly down to two factors. 1. I was so excited by what 2014 brought that I wanted everything in 2015 to happen immediately. This did not happen (obviously) and it made me feel a little let down. 2. I need some goddamn sun and warmth now.

Yet, despite this, I'm trying not to let it get me down overly. So, in order to combat the crappiness, have a fantastic playlist, named after a song by John Lambert/Chequerboard. All the featured artists are Irish and are musicians I've been listening to loads over the past month. There's a range of genres and styles present but the underlying theme (at least for me) is focusing on the great things about life, the achingly beautiful things.



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Thursday 29 January 2015

Brand Overview: IsaDora

In a new series, I'm going to start reviewing brands as a whole, taking several products from them and giving you a better idea of what to expect and where their strengths and weaknesses lie. Today I'm talking IsaDora, a Swedish drugstore beauty brand. The price-range is the higher end of drugstore products but the quality is impressive, the packaging is neat and unfussy and the brand as a whole has a grown-up feel to it. The formulations are targeted towards sensitive skin and an extra bonus is that they don't test on animals - always a good thing!

On a personal note, some of the first make-up I ever used was from IsaDora. I still use a neutral eyeshadow quad my mother bought for me before a disco or a party or something when I was fifteen! That I'm reaching for it after all these years has to say something (not to mention how little I actually wear make-up).

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Basically, I had enough of a range of their products to do a whole face (almost) exclusively with items from the brand. I did forget about eyebrows so I used the eyeliner really, really lightly to fill in the gaps in my brows just a little.

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I was perhaps most impressed with their Moisturizing Lip Gloss. I normally never wear gloss as I cannot bear the consistency but this applies and dries almost matte, leaving a shine to the lip but not slickness. The shade I got was 21 Red Carpet which is a gorgeous classic true red. I also liked that it felt nice on the lips, like that Jojoba oil was actually doing something and leaving my lips feeling moisturised rather than stripped and tired. On several occasions now, it's been the first product I've reached for - even over my Coco Rouge Shine.

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Admittedly, this blush scared me a little at first. It looks normal enough above but in person it looks like a dark, old-fashioned peachy-purple shade. However, the colour (22 Frosty Bordeaux) applies rather sheer with just a nice, pretty pink glow and a touch of sparkle. The applicator brush in the pack is okay but probably could have just been left out in favour of more of the product. I can't say I can rave about this item as much but that's more to do with my lacking in knowledge on blush. Again, however, it is currently the first blush I reach for so that has to say something.

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Similarly with the Perfect Shade Eyeliner (in 01 Soft Black), it's not that I have an issue with the product per se but I tend to use felt eyeliners and am now bad at using pencils. However, this is nice and soft on the eyes which is really important to me. It doesn't drag and, while it can be blended, it doesn't smudge the second you go anywhere near it if you want a cleaner line. It's also a lovely rich black shade.

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The BB Cream (in 01 Fair) is another stand-out product for me. The packaging reminds me of Asian beauty brands (which can only be a good thing). But the best thing about it is that it's BB cream coverage. I find that many BB creams have very high coverage, closer to foundations, and I'm just not into that. It's why I'm not choosing a foundation in the first place. I just want a light layer to pat on my skin. This one applies really smoothly, doesn't catch on dry patches overly and was really true to shade for me.

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I already was a fan of their shadows but this little trio (in the shade 84 Forest) made me squeal with joy when I saw it. I'm a neutrals gal (I know, I know - so obvious and expected) true and true so the two outer shades (a sandy copper and a metallic chocolatey brown) are pretty normal ones for me but the middle shade is reminiscent of a gorgeous green Chanel had in a quad a few seasons back. Except it's richer and with slightly better colour pay-off. Admittedly, you have to work the brown a bit to get the same richness on the lid that the shadow makes you expect but it's well worth it. These shades are stunning.

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Lastly, we have the Mineral Compact Powder in 21 Light Opal. It's a pretty basic compact powder and ticks all the boxes. It's not messy, it has a workable applicator included and a handy mirror inside - which is a surprise because it looks like a clear plastic lid with the applicator visible through it at first glance. For me, personally, it offers slightly too heavy coverage but it still feels nice on the skin.

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Packaging: 8/10
Prettiness of Shades: 9/10
Application: 8/10
Durability: 7/10
Value for Money: 8/10

Cruelty Free
Good for sensitive skin

Have you guys tried anything by the brand? What did you think?

***

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Monday 26 January 2015

Little Gem: Castle & Drury

Much as I desperately love Dublin, it sometimes feels like an overstuffed closet - full of things you like but don't love. The high street dominates leaving little room for anything else. Or that was the case until recent years. The Recession gave more and more people the impetus to try make their dreams come true - if there's no guarantees, you may as well take risks. This meant shops opened that might not have during the Celtic Tiger. 

Only opened in the past few months is menswear store Castle & Drury - one of several cool, independent menswear stores that have popped up as of late. Based at the corner of Castle Market and Drury Street, it's poised in the part of city centre that's a wee bit more off the beaten track and far enough away from Grafton Street to do more interesting things. They stock labels like Han Kjobenhavn, Libertine-Libertine, Mads Norgaard, Bleu de Paname, Wood Wood, YMC and more. 

You should expect to pay more than you would at Topman or Zara but a glance at how the clothes are made or a feel of the fabrics show the investment in quality. There's a serious streetstyle vibe and a bit of the Scandinavian takeover that's been steadily sweeping over the city with more Scandi brands being carried in SS15. And it's just a bit of a breath of fresh air to shop in. From the perfect decor to the enviable flattering lighting in the dressing room to the gorgeous bright space upstairs that's flooded with natural light.

A must for any fashion-conscious man in the city, really. 

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Tuesday 20 January 2015

Clothing Chats: Marc Jacobs fails to impress my brother...

Instead of doing a regular show review, I decided to start a new series where I record a discussion between myself and someone less knowledgeable about fashion or less interested in it or someone who isn't part of the target audience. Basically people with fresh, less biased opinions. 

Today, I begin with me and my little brother discussing Marc Jacobs AW15-16 Mens.

***

Me: So, I'll show you through the looks and see what you make of it...what about the first look?


Le Bro: It looks like a woman from the 1920s.

The 1920s? Do you not think the hair and styling is more nineties?

Wait...is that a woman or a man?

A man.

Oh, it looks like a woman cross-dressing in the 1920s.

So...you're saying the clothes are like something from the 20s but the hair is throwing you off?

Yeah...heh...

Okay...what about this one?


He just looks like he doesn't give a shit.

(Scrolls)



Okay, so, it's a bit of a jump there. Throwing in an animal print.

Oh, that's interesting.

Would you wear animal print?

No. And it looks like he does't want to wear it either. He looks pretty disgusted with it, to be honest.

....


Okay, the styling is a bit funny because...y'know...fashion. But look at the entirety of the look.

I don't approve of the hat. Even if he was wearing it right. It's just an ugly, ugly hat.

Oh-ho-ho-kay. There you go, Mr Jacobs!


Em...so that's a bit more normal.

What about the hem-length? That's where they're changing it up a bit.

Is that the shirt? (Points to end of shirt at the back, peeking out from under the jumper)

Yeah.

Oh. I don't like that the back is longer than the front.

'cause that's something that's been a thing in women's clothes for quite some time now.

It looks very rigid. It looks like he's wearing cardboard. And the shoes are very clunky looking.

Em, I think everything's just been pressed to look very sharp and stylised.

...


He looks like a Death Eater or something. His handbag is certainly interesting. His coat's nice though. I'd probably wear that. Again, I wouldn't wear the hat...that one's not ugly, I just don't like that sort of hat. The other one was just plain ugly. I don't know what he was thinking with a white hat...Fucking manky...

(Muffled laughter) White hat... (Laughs again)


Oh, I'd wear that. Not with that shirt but...


Just no. It looks like a mix between a bathrobe and an Aran jumper.

Well, I think it is going for an Aran jumper and I think the whole collection - what I'm getting from it - is trying...

Is it Irish?

Maybe not Irish but kind of fifties, sixities, classic pieces. So, this is like the way men used to dress. But the styling is a bit more nineties.


...they seem to all be kind of a similar theme...

Well, yeah, that's what they do with collections. They try to make them cohesive as if they've all been inspired by the same things. So, this is the print you liked before in the suit.

I like that coat.

Yeah, it's a good classic trench with a twist.


No, I don't like that.

What about it?

Anything. I don't like the mix. I don't like the colours. I don't like how it all looks together. I don't like the leather jacket.

Yeah, I'm not sure about it either.

I'm very picky when it comes to leather jackets.

I just don't think the cut of it is very nice. It's kinda cheap-looking.

That pocket looks stupid. Actually, it makes him look fat too.

I think that might be the stance.


Okay, now he's just trying to be a pimp.

(Laughing)

Em...no. It'd be too warm. I know there'd be an awful smell. The boots are kind of nice.

Well, I'm assuming it's probably faux.

Yeah, well, even if it's faux you're just asking for smell-collecting in that.


(Laughs) He looks like a bird.

Again, this is something that's been around in women's clothes...that kind of fuzzy fabric.

Oh...it's kind of like...what was I watching? Charlie Haughey's (Former Irish Prime Minister) mistress used to wear a coat kind of like that. I can see a French woman wearing that, to be honest.

A French woman...I see.


Oh good lord! It's like a massive scarf.

...yeah, that's what it is.

Looks like he's a thumb.

He looks like a thumb?!

(Both laugh)

Huge scarves are coming in next AW - why can't capes come in? - They were already in for women this AW. Capes? Capes are kind of always in when they're done right.

No, I mean cloaks that go around here (points to neck and shoulders) and is a big wintery one (stands and gestures wildly) that goes down to here (points to floor).

Em. Well, that's a hard look to pull off, I have to say.


That's kinda cool.

Yeah, I like that.

That looks like something Joey Ramone would have worn.

Who? 

Joey Ramone. 

Oh. Eh, maybe too much colour for him though.


Ehhh...not a fan of any of that really. The scarf's okay but the rest looks like he went into a vintage shop and picked out the least fashionable stuff possible...No, not least fashionable but looks like he picked out the smelliest stuff possible. 

Smelliest? (Laughs)


Poorly styled lecturer.

(Laughs)


That's slightly better. I still don't like it though.


That's a funky coat. He seems to be wearing the same trousers in everything.


(Leans forward and squints) What kind of cardigan is that?...I think there's too much going on there, to be honest. It looks like he's wearing a zoot suit with a cardigan from the sixties.


He looks like something from an anime. I like that. 

It's very streamlined.

I don't like double-breasted jackets though.

I don't normally either. I'm not sure about the colour as well but I like the whole look.


Now he looks like a PHD student who's trying to be a lecturer but knows he shouldn't dress exactly like him but he's failing in every respect.

Wow.


That's probably the worst thing I've seen so far. White jacket? I'm sorry but that's just not something anyone can pull off. 

I have a white jacket.

Sorry but no.

Ooookayyy.


I like that. I like the blazer.


That just looks like it doesn't fit right to me. 

The whole thing looks like - you know those little boys that would be forced to dress up for dinner in the early 20th century?

Only with shorts.

Yeah. It looks really uncomfortable and like "Ohhh, bring me hooome."

It's just...it's open too high.

You shouldn't be able to see his shirt.

Yeah, the button should be lower. 

He looks like he hates it.

So, overall, what are you taking away from Marc Jacobs AW15?

Em, is this high fashion?

It's Ready-to-Wear. Couture isn't really a thing for men.

Well, I was thinking if it was high fashion, it was really low-key. It doesn't seem too bold except for that weird scarf thing.

So pretty safe?

Everything seems like a re-hash of things that have been going around for 300 years.

Well, that's kind of fashion. It's just whether you can put the right new spin on it.

None of it's new.

Well, few of us have truly original ideas.

Still, I was expecting a dress or a half-dress or a silk handkerchief or something.

So, what you expect from a fashion show is that they put a man in a dress? To innovate?

No, just something new

***

Quite a harsh review of Marc Jacobs AW15-16 from Le Little Bro but entertaining and interesting to get the opinions of someone outside of fashion at length. I might not agree with much of what he said but I think it's good to be pulled back from the unquestioning enthusiasm show reivews can sometimes lull me into. It's good to be aware, to think more deeply, examine our reactions.

What did you think?

(Images via vogue.co,uk)


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Sunday 18 January 2015

My New Shopping Rules

I can be a bit of a hoarder - a trait I get from Daddy - and while I once dreamed of an overflowing wardrobe, I've now come to realise how little I actually want that! I mean, it's a bit of a nightmare really. You end up having lots of a things you never wear that hide the things you're actually looking for. You forget about half the things you own and you get overwhelmed by how stifling too much choice can be. Most of us have lived the cliche of pulling everything out of a closet and still feeling like you have absolutely nothing to wear.

I've also been becoming less satisfied with the contemporary relationship with clothes, material goods, shopping and wastefulness. Don't get me wrong, I'll still always love the shows and new collections but I can admire without possessing. I basically just want to invest in good, long-wearing pieces I adore from now on instead of amassing an abundance of things I could very much live without. I don't want to weigh myself down with things anymore and I'm rather concerned about my carbon footprint. "Less is more" has been my philosophy for a while when styling and I want to make it apply to obtaining as well.

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In accordance with these feelings and going in to a new year, I've had two clearouts of my wardrobe - one before Christmas and one after all the new items received as gifts etc. I donated much of what I took out of there but I plan to sell higher-end pieces in order to create that investment fund for future purchases. I was going to use ebay to do this but Ciara O'Doherty's post on de-cluttering your wardrobe reminded me of Siopaella, a designer consignment store in Dublin that buys pieces to sell on. You could also keep a bag of stuff to one side for a clothes swap event or use an app like Depop. I just like the idea of being able to drop stuff off when it suits me and do a transaction without the muss and fuss of posting. I think selling items makes it much easier to part with them and the combination of donation and earning cleans out your wardrobe while giving your soul a bit of a polish and replenishing your bank account.

I've also set myself some new rules which I'm going to try and enforce from now on when shopping.

1. Replace rather than replicate.

There are certain pieces I love and live in - boyfriend jeans, massive coats, slip-on shoes, ankle boots. And as I rarely go a day without wearing one of these items, it makes me feel justified in having multiples of them. While I think it is actually fair enough to have two maybe three of these types of items, I've gone way overboard with coats and boots. Moving forward, however, I'm only allowing myself to buy these pieces when another has to be thrown out or replaced.

2. Try Things On (or, "If it doesn't look good' get rid of it").

I am atrocious for being too lazy to try things on. Which means I had a lot of things in my closet that didn't fit or look right. If a piece is worth it, I'm all about having things altered but if the basic shape or colour or length doesn't look right on you, chuck it. Wearing these items will only make you anxious or feel bad about yourself and ain't nobody got time for that. And for the love of God, don't buy items for when you lose weight. That one motivation dress is fine but half a wardrobe of things that don't fit will only weigh you down and discourage you - you are worth way more than that kind of nonsense. (This obviously doesn't apply to pregnancy) From now on, I'm trying things on and if they don't work, no matter how cute, I'm not going to waste money, space and energy hoping this will magically change.

3. Alter Your Outlook.

Conversely, I really do believe in alteration. Don't get me started about how ridiculous women's dress sizes are (I mean, at least use standardised measurements rather than numbers that forward the agenda of your brand) but the whole idea of RTW is somewhat preposterous. Yes, off the rack garments are handy but we're all so different that they rarely work. My advice is to have important pieces altered. If you've found the perfect white shirt but it doesn't fit your boobs right or the sleeves or hem are too long - don't leave it behind!

4. Don't Settle.

You've been after a leather jacket or the perfect cropped trousers or satchel or whatever for absolutely ages. You've lost hope that you'll ever find it. I've been there - I'm still hunting for a white shirt I really love. But unless you need the item right away resist accepting second best. I always see pieces vaguely like what I'm after but not quite right and because they're on sale or just because they're right in front of me, I buy them. A few times. And then I have two or three items like what I want but not what I want. If you have to save for a while or wait a little longer, it's worth it.

5. Shop with your eyes, hands, heart and head.

Increasingly, I'm trying to think more about what I'm buying - to use my head and my senses. I've been shopping with my hands for a while because we wear garments, not just appreciate them from afar so I don't want artificial fibres that create static or any materials that don't feel good against the skin. I also attempt to be more aware of where the garment is coming from and check the labels. I try to feel the quality and look at how the piece has been made. In other words, I try not to be blinded by how something looks and think about its origins, use and future.

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6. Avoid Sales.

Unless I've been keeping my eye on something, waiting for the price to be a little more reasonable. Otherwise, I'll avoid sales from now on. I know they're tempting but bargains are false economy if they're using up money you could save for something you really want and need.

7. Learn to Shop without buying or Just Don't Shop.

I often accompany friends or family members as their fashion eye for advice when they need an outfit for a occasion or general wardrobe updates - I've been known to do wonders for small budgets. But just because I'm shopping doesn't mean I have to buy something. Same goes for holidays - you may want a memento but can photographs and memories themselves not suffice? These are the moments you buy things you really don't want or need.

8. Want vs. Need vs. Can't Live Without.

Speaking of wants and needs - it's good to start distinguishing between these. I've always had a "standard" to shop by which was to only buy things I couldn't imagine leaving the shop without. However, I'm not always strict enough with myself on this one. From now on, I'm going to stick by all my above rules with the caveat that I can cheat if I absolutely adore something.

9. Go Shopping When the Mood is Right.

This one's important. Just as I try not to buy just because I'm shopping, I try not to buy the wrong things because I'm hungry, too warm, bored, tired or not feeling good about myself. If you're not feeling it, take a break, have a coffee or tea and come back to it or leave it for another day. Try not to get too warm and don't let yourself get hungry. It's easy to just buy something because you're fed up and want to go home. And dressing rooms have some of the least flattering lighting and mirrors that can completely discourage you which can put you off point number two and leave you buying things you haven't tried on that don't fit.

10. Always Have a List In Mind.

Finally, I'm going to allow myself buy at most one item of clothing or an accessory a month but I'm going to keep a list of items in mind that my wardrobe needs - key pieces, basics, replacements, upgrades. This means that if I do have an urge to shop, it'll only be for something I really need and am going to use. Having a plan in mind makes it a lot easier to avoid buying pieces that are too attached to a particular trend or that you don't really want.


Okay! That ended up being a lot of words but I hope they helped some people out....not least of all me. Let me know if you have similar aims and any tips for staying on track!


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