Rory Parnell-Mooney AW16

More and more, it is menswear that captures my attention. My greatest style icons have often been men and the preference for functionality and comfort suits my personal dress sense. Furthermore, the limitations upon menswear are both undeniably frustrating and interesting and lead to interesting results. It can seem like there is nothing that hasn't already been done in some shape or form with womenswear and it is increasingly difficult to truly surprise, titillate, shock or innovate. But the response of menswear to tradition, expectation, roles and the interplay of body and clothes, conceal and reveal, remains exciting and fresh. Even when referencing the past or notions that have long been around.

Take Rory-Parnell Mooney's AW16 collection: Dazed beautifully covered the show and how it was influenced by androgyny and Brian Molko of Placebo - utter poster boy for  pure, naturalistic, unlaboured and uncontrived androgynous dressing. They even quizzed him backstage on why Molko became his muse for this collection with the designer stating, “There’s just something about the confidence with which he wears clothes. I mean he was walking round with bright red lipstick and a cropped mohair jumper, and it was just so easy. He wasn’t contrived or pretentious, it was just how he wanted to dress. There’s something so nice about that.”

And there is something nice about that. About people wearing what they want without being made feel bad about it, about being authentic, about ignoring silly ideas of what is appropriate on one body versus another. This authenticity reads. It's apparent. It made Molko a sex symbol that baffled some and delighted others.

Playing on ideas of androgyny is nothing new in fashion. Musicians dressing androgynously is nothing new. Musicians inspiring designers is nothing new.

What is new here is the essence of Molko's attitude towards dressing. It inspires the look of the clothes, yes, and his re-appropriation of a gay slur in the song, "Nancy Boy" is directly quoted and emblazoned proudly across some of Parnell-Mooney's garments, worn almost as a badge of pride. However, it's that naturalistic way about how he dressed that stands out, that innovates here.

Questioning gender roles and expectations in dress is often loud, experimental. But, while you probably won't be seeing the average Joe popping out to the shops in Parnell-Mooney's clothes, the way they address gender is quieter, more organic. "Masculine" and "feminine" come together seamlessly. It's not overtly contrived.

And then there's the clothes themselves. Can I have everything for me, please? The palette remains in monochrome and navy tones, the silhouettes are elongated but skim over the body in baggy trousers like those my generation knew all too well and boxy, smart jackets and shirts. Practical, weighty knits and key separates are show alongside silky tops and spangles: the practical, the frivolous: the male, the female. And it all comes together as naturally as a woman's wardrobe, as a modern human's personality - it's a melting pot of ideas and influences, needs and desires, moods and moments. This man is sometimes having a bad day, tired and unwilling to dress up, heading to an airport in a luxe hoody and baggy pants or feeling on fire and confident the next, hitting the town in sequins to meet friends for after work drinks. Sometimes he's somewhere between the two. He's a complex human being.

This paves the path for the future of dressing and makes me anxiously await what Parnell-Mooney has for us next.

What do you guys make of the collection?

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Paul Galvin for Dunnes Stores

Normally I hear a lot of hype before a collab collection drops but the Paul Galvin for Dunnes Stores collection managed to sneak up on me somehow. Which is funny because I've been saying for a while that such a collection was exactly what Dunnes needed. With so many amazing designer collaborations in-house for homeware, kids and women, there was a space that was crying out for some seriously contemporary, cool menswear.

And now it has been filled. While the collection is distinctly a fashion forward departure for the brand when it comes to menswear and the pieces have urban, contemporary elements, it also presents solid, clean separates that are good quality and would fit into many a wardrobe. You don't have to be quite the urban warrior that Galvin has put forward in order to find something for you.

But if you want to be that warrior, go ahead!

See, the thing is, there's actually plenty of exciting stuff going on for menswear in Ireland but it often requires having access to a lot of capital - something which is especially daunting if you might be worried a snide remark or comment might prevent you from ever wearing something a little more daring again. This collection is a high street collaboration, admittedly on an upper scale of the high street, but is accessible for many nonetheless. And, while it's pushing in a different direction with the styling of the lookbook, some of the decorative accents and trims, silhouettes and pieces such as the cape-parka hybrid, it's not too far from the accepted to give your average Joe trying something new too difficult of a time.

Galvin himself states that he aimed to create something which is "not so much a clothing collection as a clothing movement" and which "represents new thoughts, new language, and hopefully a new direction for menswear in Ireland." Some might roll their eyes at such an ambitious claim but I'm very much on the same page. Let's level the playing field when it comes to clothing - if nothing else, it'll make commutes and walking down the street more interesting.

The "Vanguard", (which was chosen to capture the "spirit of the vanguard warriors, the risk takers, who led military movements from the front") title of the collection seems interesting as well, given the timing. 1916 commemorations are looming and are very much present in the popular mindset at the moment, giving many of us pause to consider our rather recent past and the struggle for independence as led by some of our greatest thinkers, warriors and heroes as well as a lot about the vast changes which have overcome our little island in the past century. While it's dangerous to think more adventurous menswear is anything close to synonymous with a bridging of the gap of inequality between men, women and everything between, it's still progress when freedoms of expression become more normalised. 

Outside my tangents into the symbolic and sociological elements of the collection, it's just damn wearable and cool and I'm even coveting some of the pieces for myself. The collection comprises of 21 styles and key pieces including an overcoat, bomber jacket, shirts, sweatshirts, tees, sweatpants, sweaters and footwear with prices from €25. It is available in selected Dunnes Stores and online and went on sale on Saturday the 17th of October (sorry about my delay in posting on it!).

Will any of you guys be picking any of the pieces up? What do you make of the collection?

(All images are courtesy, and property of, Dunnes Stores)

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Heatons SS15

After the most horrendous bus journey of my life (i.e. traffic was so bad that a four minute walk took twenty minutes on the bus, before I abandoned ship and had to run into town, in shoes I'd yet to break in), I finally arrived at Fallon & Byrne for the Heatons SS15 press event this morning. Immediately I was welcomed with smiles, a goody bag and SO MUCH COLOUR.

Seriously though. I'm dying for a sunny holiday now.

If you're feeling the tropical vibes this summer, Heatons has got you covered.

The main trends that I could see were nautical, tropical and boho. There were floral swimsuits that were so Dolce, mesh lime coverups, cute little crochet waistcoats, uber-cool block colour sandals. Little straw hats for everyone - polka-dotted, floppy and massive or boyish. Cross-bodies and wellies to prepare you for festival season. Basically, everything and anything that you might need for this next season and all the events that come with it.

For the mens, a little less options but strong pieces. We're talking a splash of colour without being overly challenging - peachy tones, blue, navy, neutrals. The nautical theme was more predominant here with crisp striped shirts and cosy jumpers for cooling summer evenings.

And the kids' clothes! If there weren't clips being recorded for television I would have been squeeing all over the gaff! So, so cute. Pretty frills and pastel tones. Lime greens, azures and sweet little shirts.

As for the homewares, Heatons has kind of been developing a rather strong design aesthetic here recently. I had noticed it before. It's all a little rustic, retro and cute with just enough luxe elements to dress it up. Colour is, again, very much present with just the right amount of kitsch in bunting, imperfect finishes and playful patterns.

Cheered me right up, the whole thing did.

Menswear shades.

Wooing me with food.

Overall, I was majorly impressed. Thanks so much to Heatons for having me and everyone there who made it so wonderful. 

Special mention and thanks to Francesca from Tropical Popical - always love to see you guys at things! Plus, my nails are on point once more.

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COS AW15 Menswear

I finally remembered to drop the COS AW15 lookbook into my godmother this weekend. She and I are both big fans and have begun to exclusively buy each other gift cards at holidays and birthdays. Now that I get to go to press previews, I always give her a peek at what to expect. We kinda bond over it. But when I was giving her the lookbook, it gave me pause to have another flick through.

And I remembered how awesome the menswear lookbook was.

So slick.

Not mad on some of the styling - no matter how cool you are, it's hard to pull off sliders + socks - but the overall theme is so on point. I love the Japanese influence, the folded v-necklines, the minimal tailoring. The silhouettes hug the body but don't adhere to it; flattering, slimming, streamlining.

There's a touch of normcore and nineties but enough of that Scandinavian cool to pull it all together and make it fresher, something new.

I'll definitely be borrowing from the boys with this one. Shop in whatever section you please, I do.

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