Friday, 14 November 2014


COS is one of those brands with an identity so singularly well realised that any garments produced by the house are immediately identifiable. We expect certain things of their collections - ease, simplicity, pops of colours, delicate patterns, touches of androgyny and coolness. And all of these things are at play in the SS15 collection but there's something a tad more utilitarian than normal. One is reminded of Danielle Romeril's SS15 collection, of cool girls abandoning civilisation for beautiful surrounds...but not style. Netting and mesh, fish-like or mermaidesque metallics, camo shades, whites, peacock pops of yellows and blues, aprons, flowing lengths abound. Firm fabrics of utility contrast those of delicacy that float gauzily, masterfully, reminiscent of butterfly wings or translucent scales. The manmade imitating the beauty of nature. All the while retaining a sleek restraint and minimalism. Always self-editing, paring back. Never too much. And the overall feeling I take away is of this rustic urbanity. Of old fabrics and constructions and concepts used with new techniques and in new ways. 

The house notes sport-luxe and the photography of Vincent Fournier and the fragmented typography of the work of David Ortiz as influencers on the collection and the styling of the lookbook certainly speaks to this. Which just goes to show that styling changes everything. The lookbook gives us sophistication and an editorial complexity beyond most high street stores but the base garments offer a more simplistic possibility. I'm imagining a summer bedecked in long sheer grandfather shirts from the men's collection over leggings with some Birkenstocks and ripped to all hell jeans with cloudlike tops. I'm imagining the impractical steadied by the ever-practical.

The accessories are perfect simplicity. Monochrome or made a transparent plastic with metal accents. A chunky cut-out heel or an elegant stiletto with elements of runners imbued. 

That the menswear was so daring in lengths, cuts and fabric choices was much appreciated - by me, at least. The perfection of the pure white floatiness wasn't arbitrarily weighed down or diluted. Similar necklines and collars were present for both men and women and most garments were entirely wearable for any and all brave and stylish enough.

Can it be summer now?

The pieces will drop from February onwards in stages and I, for one, cannot wait.

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