Seoul Fashion Week AW18 - Sitting Front Row At Major Fashion Weeks Across Two Continents, Street Style and More!

About a year ago, I decided I wanted to go to Seoul Fashion Week. I'd been attending London Fashion Week biannually for a while and, given my great love of Korean fashion, wanted to see what it was all like over there. It seemed like a distant dream - it would be too expensive, it was so far away and I'd likely have to go alone. And then my friend announced she and her boyfriend were going to Japan and I thought, "If they can do such a big trip, I can too!"

Organising it was difficult. The flight, hotel...all that stuff was easy but fashion week was hard. It's not as old or well-established as London and, as a result, the mechanisms in place don't run as smooth. I never actually did manage to properly register through the official event. Plus, I was doing it all through my limited understanding of the Korean language and contact with people who spoke limited English. Then, my Korean teacher saved the day and put me in contact with a designer friend of hers, Jimmy Tailor, and a designer I met at LFW pulled through for me with a hook-up. The amazing, jam-packed line-up of shows that I had envisioned didn't happen but these contacts saved the entire trip for me and I got to attend five shows and peep the incredible street style outside, as well. Plus, the fact that I didn't have a crazy schedule meant that I got to tourist in Seoul and have an actual holiday!

A.Bell

YCH

Seoul Fashion Week was lots of the things that I had imagined but also surprised me in many ways. I knew it was run by Hera, a big Korean beauty brand, but I hadn’t realised that it was originally a government-run affair. And, in going private, I was told privately that it has gone from an event that funded young designers and became a system that allowed big designers to get bigger and gave newbies little chance to grow. This is disheartening news, to say the least, but not at all surprising in such a cut-throat industry.

Also surprising was the street style situation. It was as colourful and fascinating as I had presumed - though a North Londoner who happened to walk past me described the aesthetic scathingly as, “the ugliest clothes you can find with a bucket hat on top” - but there was a note of desperation that was unique to Seoul. Not desperation in a pathetic way but in a way that was so enduringly hard-working and eager that it made me sad. The main walkway down to the show venues was constantly lined with street style star hopefuls, posing and waiting to be papped. The same people were there for hours and hours and worked it in a way that was impressively professional. Of course, these types of people are at every fashion week around the world but they were especially persistent at SFW. Furthermore, the sheer number of young men compared to women was startling and severe. In Seoul, the boys are just as serious about fashion.

Vanon Studio

Sown Garments & Brown Hat

When it came to the shows, I was super into the width and breadth of influences and styles. I had presumed that a very urban and contemporary look would reign supreme (as it did outside, on the kids waiting to be photographed) but, while it was present, it was not king. The first show I went to, A.Bell, was a refined and expertly restrained affair in sandy tones that would give Celine a run for its money. The next show, Vanon Studio, nodded to 1980s cybergoth and bondage. Largely made up of risqué menswear pieces, it featured  harnesses, cutouts and a traffic cone tied to a wrist as an accessory. Immediately after that came Sown Garments, with accessories by Brown Hat, which saw lots of neutral toned suiting directly from the early 20th century. Then was my favourite show, YCH, which was an ode to 40s and 50s trunk shows and boasted super-oversized hats, pearl details, headscarves, cheerful pops of colour, reimagined classic tailoring and romantic blouses. Finally, I had the Low Classic show that was all earthy palettes, draping, luxurious fabrics and boho tailoring.

My hook-up was pretty good and I ended up with lots of great seats - a couple of second rows and two front rows. However, for the YCH show, there was a fuck-up with the list. My name wasn't there and neither was the name of a Russian company director and the nine people who had come with her. She wasn't impressed and the show was about to begin. We were told to wait for one of the organisers to come meet us but she didn't show so the Russian lady dragged me along to the entrance to figure it out. We eventually found the woman in charge and she presented the Russian lady with two tickets. She laughed in shock and reminded the organiser that she had ten people in her group (who had since disappeared). Frustrated with the situation and sorry for me (who was next in the list of concerns and not yet considered), she simply handed me one of the tickets and said, "Go." I thanked her and ran inside. "Where do I go?" I asked several people (in Korean), as there was no number on the ticket. "That way" and a casual point in some direction. I asked two more people, the lights were going down, it was about to start. "Dear God" (or the Korean equivalent) said a more senior looking person and grabbed my wrist, brought me over to the front row, tugged a Matches Fashion buyer's name off of it, handed me the gift on the seat and pushed me into the chair. So, I ended up with a perfectly positioned seat, a cute present and a record of being front row at major shows, at major fashion weeks, across two continents. I might not be where I want to be in my career but that, alone, is pretty damn neat for an aspiring fashion journalist

It’s funny, my experience of SFW gave me a great deal of insight into its uglier sides and, yet, I still saw enough beauty and genius that I fell in love. And you know it’s true love if it still happens when you can see the flaws so clearly from the get-go. My friend, who is a local fashion insider, said he felt that Seoul is just "one designer copying another, though it’s not like European designers don’t do the same". Of course, he’s not wrong that the fashion industry, globally, sees a lot of people jumping on board the same trends. But I would argue that the lens through which Seoul sees and re-imagines things is special and addictive. And now that I’ve gotten a taste of it, I can’t wait to go back...

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Sophie

In my series on subculture in Dublin I have previously interviewed and photographed two Lolitas thus far, Josie and Sarah. Continuing this trend, I met with Sophie and, once again had amazing chats about Lolita, subculture, clothing, gender, feminism and passion. Here's what Sophie had to say about the subculture she loves and life, in general.

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Moi: So, maybe the obvious starting point would be how you came to Lolita.

Sophie: Em, okay. So, originally, when I was younger, I was kinda big into drawing. It's always been something that I've been quite passionate about. And from there I found Japanese comic books, as many, y'know sixteen year olds do...and there's one called Paradise Kiss and it's based on fashion subcultures. So, they're all in this fashion school, they're looking for a model-

Oh, I've read it!

- yeah! It's still one of my favourites, out of everything. It's much more adult than a lot of them. But there's one girl in it who dresses in Lolita. And the minute I saw it, I was like, “I love that! I need to know what it is!” And there's Lolita elements in a lot of manga but it's never explained, whereas she's into the whole culture of Lolita and her older sister is a Lolita designer. Even the name of that brand is like, “Happy Berry” which is obviously a rip-off of AngelicPretty (A/N: One of the biggest Lolita labels). So, that's where I found it first. And I really felt like “What is this?! I need to know!” From there I started trawling the internet and found the Irish group back in the LiveJournal days...so, it's a long time ago altogether! It's kind of all history from there.

And why do you think people are drawn to it?

I think that a lot of people...like, I've always been into frilly clothes ever since I was a really little kid. My mum always used to joke that when I went to pick my Communion dress, she had to go to the store beforehand and had to pick the less garishly frilly dresses and hide the garish ones. And she said she knew before I even arrived that I was going to pick the frilliest one. And I did. She knew exactly which one I was going to pick. So, obviously there is a certain thing where you're just drawn to certain styles from a very young age. And, for me, when I saw it in Paradise Kiss, it was kinda like, “That's exactly what I want to wear. This is finally what I want to wear and love.” Instead of apathy towards what was in fashion, this was passion.

And that's a big thing I've noticed a lot. A very passionate community. It's obviously more than an aesthetic so why do you think people are emotionally drawn to it?

I guess it's slightly nostalgic...I mean, it's not childish but it has elements of childhood in it. And I think a lot of people, as they grow up, are taught not to be creative, to dress the same as everyone else, that you can express yourself but in a controlled way. I found for me, Lolita was kind of a way of saying, “I don't care if people judge me. This is how I want to look.” And it was a very deliberate choice of this is how I want to look. It's freeing...I mean, people will stare. But the thing is, I don't really care because I like how I look.

It's entirely for you.

Exactly. It's very much dressing for yourself and not caring about other people at all.

There's two things that I think are interesting there. One being that, I remember discussing this point with a friend. People found it strange that we'd been picked on in secondary school because they thought we seemed so friendly and normal. And he was a metalhead as a teen and I was a punk and we both said that we feel like a lot of people come to these sorts of styles, subcultures because if you're going to be judged it's not about you but how you're dressed.

Yeah, it's like how people joke that you're putting on your frilly armour. Because people are going to stare and comment and you know it's because of what you're wearing and you're kinda like...there's no pretense about it. Which is kinda nice because if people are giggling or whatever, you know, it's not because you have something on your face or your hair is a bird's nest or they know a rumour about you. It's like, “I know what's going on here,” and, therefore, I can just let it go.

The other thing that I think is interesting there, is the idea of ownership. I think it ties into the idea of women increasingly taking ownership of their appearance and bodies and how they display them.

When I went to Helsinki for a Lolita groupmeet of international Lolitas and one of the girls there did her thesis on feminism and the Lolita culture and one of the things that she was taking about and that I read about a lot is that, Lolita, as a fashion, is very...it's almost the opposite of male-centric. It's not sexual. It's not supposed to be sexual. People will read into it what they want but the whole idea is not to be provocative, to not show a lot of skin. A lot of people don't find it particularly attractive. Particularly, men. It's freeing as you're dressing for yourself and other women. You go to conventions and people compliment things you've made or your hair. It's very female-focused. There are some male Lolitas but it's quite uncommon and a lot of those dress in the female fashion rather than a male version. It's very female-focused and, as I said, most men don't find it appealing.

So, it's a good barometer, then.

Exactly, it's freeing that you're not dressing for the male gaze. You're not even trying. There's no underlying thing of “Is this sexy?” or “Oh, is this showing too much?” It's not for anyone else. It's for you and other Lolitas.

The Lolita community seems particularly progressive and feminist at large. So, where do you think the connection between Lolita and feminism comes in?

Well, I guess, the big thing is taking ownership of your look. Like, say, arguably, a lot of mainstream fashion is run by men. And even in instances where they aren't personally interested in women in a sexual way, the male gaze is still presented that way and sexuality is still prominent. In Lolita, it's almost the exact opposite. If you look at the ads...most of the owners and designers are female...and the ads are innocent and with no underlying sexiness.

Which is interesting with the name...(A/N: i.e. the connection, or lack thereof to the novel, Lolita)

Well, apparently, it doesn't have that connection at all in Japan. The book isn't as famous there. It's only in Western culture that we have to deal with, “But, really, deep down, it's got sexual undertones.” That doesn't seem to exist in Japan in the same way.

I should point out that we're not judging women who dress sexually, however.

Oh, no, of course not!

I just wanted that on the record when I have to type this out!

Oh, of course. It's not like...I mean, there's provocative trends I like. I'm just not comfortable with it on my own body. Especially as I'm quite hourglass-shaped and it drew unwanted attention when I was younger.

Yep, got boobs at fourteen and then it's like...

...suddenly have to deal with sexual attention when you're not ready for it...

...from much older men who think it's okay.

Exactly. So, ever since then I've dressed more modestly for my own comfort levels. Which is also probably why I was drawn to Lolita. It's so non-provocative-

-or provocative in a different sense.

Yeah, it's very pretty and girly-

-detail-orientated.

Which I would be in general. In everything in my life.

I think that kind of connects to feminism and Lolita as well. It's mostly women in the fashion, designing it, behind the brand. And traditionally, clothes-making and interest in and interesting clothes have been feminine or seen as feminine (A/N: throughout much of European history). That knowledge and understanding of clothes. Like, I love talking to Lolitas about clothes because they know about hems and silhouettes and fabrics. That's what they want to talk about. And it links up with the history of people, and especially women, and their relationship with clothing.

I think that women, in general, have a much more personal relationship with clothes. Women tend to express themselves more with clothing. And they would be expected to. If you don't put some effort into clothing you're seen as laid back or a tomboy or this sort of thing. I work in a software company and I wouldn't wear Lolita to work because it's very male-orientated and if I were to dress up, it's made a big deal of. “Where are you going?” Like, there has to be a reason to dress up.

Because you're not doing it for yourself, obviously.

Yeah, you must be going out. I can't just want to look nice. It's easier not to do it. I wear jeans and a t-shirt to work and I'm seen as a tomboy but really I'm not at all. It's just easier.

That is the uniform of guys around our age.

Yeah, especially in computers. It's like “Jesus, could you put some effort in?” I get it. But come on.

So, a word I always hear with Lolita is passion. And I feel like passion is something that can be discouraged a lot like it's dramatic or emotional or childish...especially as you get older...

Well, that's it exactly. Like, I work in IT but I studied computer games and that's another very passionate hobby. I've met a lot of Lolitas who also like gaming. I think it's because “geeky” hobbies allow for a certain amount of passion anyway. People really get into it. I think the two cross over for me. I think passion, in general, is a really good thing. As you get older, you're told to be more apathetic about things.

“Realistic”. “Logical”.

“Realistic.” “It's not that big a deal. Relax.” You can enjoy things but don't put too much energy into them unless you want it to be your career. I don't agree with that. I enjoy computers but my passions are other things. It's a good job, I enjoy it but it's, in no way, my passion. It will never be. And there are some people in my company for whom it is their passion and they love it and they go home and do more programming. I think it's great to meet people who haven't lost that kind of love of something, who can be passionate so freely, they're not holding back. They're enthusiastic. I've noticed, as you get older, lots of people lose that and I'm a very enthusiastic person about...most things. Meeting other people who are enthusiastic about life brings me great joy. When you meet a group of friends and they're all complaining about work and you ask about a movie and they're like “Oh, yeah, it was alright”...and you're all like “That was the best movie ever, what's wrong with you?!” It's nice to see people who aren't afraid to be enthusiastic and positive.

I guess you need the odd bubble of positivity now and then.

Exactly. I'm a very positive person and I think the Lolita community is generally quite positive. Not just about Lolita. I find a lot of Lolitas I meet tend to be positive people because if you're passionate about one thing it tends to bleed into the rest of your life. Having something you're crazy about makes you more enthusiastic and a joiner and Lolitas are good at that. They want to be a part of things. I think it's because it's less about the fashion and more about the people. People who are passionate are drawn to the fashion because you need to be really into it takes up lot of time and money. People who are passionate tend to be drawn to Lolita fashion and then, as such, Lolitas, in general, tend to be passionate people.

(Thanks to Sophie for meeting me, posing and waiting the TWO MONTHS it took for me to transcribe this interview...Apologies. I just HATE transcribing!)

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Streetstyle - Dublin Castle

So, I was at Milk and Cookies tonight at Dublin Castle (this is an awesome monthly event in Dublin that involves listening to people spin a yarn, laughing lots, drinking too much tea and eating cake) and waiting for friends to arrive when I spotted Meng doing the same. After minutes of awkwardly debating whether or not to bother her, I approached her and (as per) was pleasantly surprised by how lovely she was! She modestly insisted that she was just wearing work clothes but that made it all the better in my eyes! Good workwear is a rare and wonderful beast. Here's how to do it right!

I'm loving the mixing of masculine elements such as the classic striped shirt and mannish coat with a simple skirt and a statement necklace. The balance here is great - masculine and feminine, dressy and casual.

I'm also into that rolled sleeve - those proportions.

First Streetstyle in Quite A While...

I encountered the lovely Alice as I was walking back from the shops, laden with far too many bags and with the nagging feeling my grown-up shoes had done a number on my heels (they had). She was waiting for the bus and looked so perfectly put together that I had to turn around and ask her if I could take her photo.

TBH, it was her feet that I noticed first. Not a huge wearer of animal prints myself and the shot doesn't do them justice but those chelsea boots are killer. A little gold hardware, a perfect amount of heel.

The real coup here, however, is that there's so much going on (when you look properly) and yet its not overdone. Multiple textures, colours and prints are seamlessly put together and tamed by a lively but somewhat subdued colour palette.

I also love that each piece is great in it's own right. Those jeans, that scarf.

All this might lead you to wonder (if you're a longtime reader) why it's been so long since I last did any streetstyle shots. Is Dublin no longer stylish? Mais, of course it is! Then what's up? Well, (here's the bit with excuses) all last year I was working on my dissertation and being a final year and spent a lot of time on campus. I just felt weird about going up to people I knew vaguely/probably had friends in common with. Then this year I've been doing my Masters and, again, felt weird about asking people around campus. Mostly because (and I realise I'm only 22 here) I feel like I'd be some old creep, stalking the undergrads.

I get that all this is more about me overthinking shit and stuff. 

But today (and recently) I've been better about not being so in my own head and awkward and have been putting myself out there more. And you know what? EVERY SINGLE TIME it pays off.

Moral of the day kids: challenge yourself.

Peace out.

Maybe expect more?

PS DISCLAIMER: This post is not sponsored by Fine Gael, nor an ad for them. Vote whatever way you want.

Streetstyle Profile: Josephine and Irish Lolitas.

Lolita is a subculture of fashion which comes from Japan and incorporates Victorian aspects of dress. Since its conception in the 70s, it has spread to other parts of the world, including Ireland. However, it remains a very niche trend here. I was introduced to Josephine through a mutual friend after spotting her and some friends around Trinity College. What follows is our conversation, surprising revelations and clarifying misconceptions and some streetstyle shots. 

Moi: So, I was just wondering how it began for you? Just like anime and stuff?

Josephine: Well, em, this is actually a weird story...I don't know. I used to watch some anime when I was about twelve, thirteen and I remember knowing that the fashion existed but I wasn't really like fully...I didn't really look into it properly at the time. And, weirdly enough, ha, it was my mum was watching telly on Film 4 or one of them film channels and she found the film Kamikaze Girls. I don't know if you've heard of it...?

Yeah.

...and the main character in that wears a lot of Lolita. And it was actually that that got me into the fashion so I can say, “Hey, mum, I might be spending a lot of money on dresses but you know who introduced me! Hehehe.

Mum, you were my gateway drug.

Pretty much! But, yeah, it was from that point that I started getting bits and bobs. Getting it right, getting it wrong – probably more wrong than right...But, yeah, the first year was a bit of a learning curve for me. And I didn't actually meet the community until maybe I was in the fashion for about a year. And that's when I started getting into it properly. And then I was making friends who knew about it and they were like, “Try this, try this.” And it was kind of like over the course of a year after seeing that film that I said, “Sure, I'll try this.” And, it just kind of happened like that. And it's really weird because I used to be a real kind of t-shirt and jeans, I-don't-need-no-dresses girl. And I was like, “Hey, this is outrageous and cool,” heh, I guess. So, it just kind of happened.

Awesome. So, yeah, the community. That really interests me because with a lot of subgenres of style you see it walking around but I remember when I was in about third year of college there was one Lolita going around Trinity. I don't know if you know her, I don't know her myself but she used to get photographed all the time by tourists.

I'm trying to think...when would you have been in third year now?

That's two years ago now.

It could have been...I know a girl, Eimear – I think she did a Masters in Trinity. It could have been her. I'm not entirely sure.

Yeah.

But, yeah, the community is...we're small enough. We have a facebook group and there's around forty of us. A lot of people can't even make it to meet-ups. And a meet-up is where we all get together. I found the community through Live Journal which is way, way old and decrepit at this stage, hehehe. But, yeah, we...a couple of us do wear it casually around town. Like, I'd wear it to college a lot of days. But some people go to work and stuff and can't wear it to work. So, it's probably not as visible as lots of other subcultures and sub-fashions and stuff but we are there! We're definitely there, just people think we're not.

Well, part of it has to do with getting the clothes. I mean, it's difficult and expensive.

Well, yeah, there is that. That's actually what's great when everyone gets together because you get a lot of buying and selling between...like with the community. And, of course you get good tips about good second-hand shops online and stuff like that. So, yeah, it's good and bad to be in a community because you're like, “Yeah! Friends who wear the same things,” but “Awww, everyone's encouraging me to spend money!” But it's still good!  

Do you think it's easier to dress this way in Japan and go about daily life?

Well, to a certain extent. You get a lot of people who have Ameblo blogs which is sort of...not quite Tumblr but blogger or something like that. And a lot of people will obscure their faces because they don't want to be recognised on the internet. Like a lot of people...I know there's one person...oh, I watch her blog quite a bit and I can't remember her name...Realistic Sweet! And she goes by that handle, but everyone thinks that she might have a really professional job so, she doesn't want to be seen as being unprofessional, if you like.

So, it's kind of an age thing. Once you're an adult it's a little less acceptable.

Yeah, I think more so in Japan. Like, there's Western Lolitas in the States that'll wear it into their forties and not care, like there's....

Well they're probably the same people that, if they were your average blogger, would probably be peacocking outside fashion shows anyway.

Yeah, exactly. Like, I fully intend to be about sixty wearing classic brands, tottering around like a fancy lady and I'm not going to care. But, yeah, I think there is a lot more freedom, from what I've seen anyway, outside of Japan for people to wear it, like older and not really care. Apparently the average age to wear it in Japan is mid-teens to forty and I think it depends how people feel in it. I mean, some people do mature quicker mentally...not mentally, but they feel they need to be mature. Particularly, there there's a lot of pressure for good jobs. Like, you have to do well. Whereas, here, you can kind of be...not laid back but you can partake in stuff like this and still get a good job. Like, there's girls in the community who do fairly well for themselves – fairplay – and they still wear this in their spare time.

I guess that's a more Irish atmosphere of, “Ah, sure, do whatever you want in your free time.”

Yeah, that's actually a really good thing about – like, there's so few of us here but there's really a, a really good attitude towards it. I mean, you do get the auld bit of slagging but, I mean, you have to put up with that. You have to go into the fashion, knowing you'll have that and be prepared to laugh at the 12.9 year olds laughing at you. Hehehe.

That's what I was going to ask. I was a punk in smalltown Ireland -

Ah...

- so, em, I can imagine that there's a certain percentage of people. But it's probably better in Dublin, is it?

Oh, it's way better in Dublin! Like, I come from down in Tipperary. Small town.

So, everyone knows you.

Yeah, everyone knows me as the girl who wears the frilly dresses. I mean, the slagging I get in Clonmel is wicked, sometimes. I mean, sometimes I can go into town and a few old ladies will be like “You're gorgeous!” And I go home again. But sometimes I'll be followed around by 11 year olds, throwing things at me. I'm like “Lads! Lads, that's not cool. You're wearing leggings and I don't care!”

The boys are wearing leggings?

Well, they could be too. I don't know what they do be up to.

Yeah, that's just one trend I can't get behind. I'm all for people wearing what makes them happy but men wearing leggings...I mean, there's just certain bunching that no one needs to see on the body...but anyway....hehehe

Hehehe.

But, yeah, so generally people respond pretty nicely?

Yeah, especially in Dublin. Like, sometimes myself and a friend will go into town and if it's really packed we'll be like “Oh, God. Let's just hide in a shop.” And everyone will be like, “Oh, you look so great! Keep doing the thing!” And it's like, yeah, this is great. Like we don't go out looking for compliments, we go out looking how we like but it is nice. And it's kind of like...especially if you've had a bad encounter that day. It makes you feel a lot better about it. But generally I tend to get more good than bad. So, that's good.

I do remember once I was waiting for my boyfriend outside of Front Arch in Trinity and I was wearing...like...there was these cat ear things in Topshop and I thought I'd wear them because they were great craic and this guy just kept meowing at me. I was just like, “Nooo. Nooo. No, you stop that.”

So, what is it you take away from it? What makes you wanna keep doing it?

I don't really know. It just feels comfortable to me. Which probably seems...probably sounds weird when I'm sitting here with God knows how many layers on me. But it's...I feel not so much it's a part of me but it's just something I really, really like. I don't really know how to describe it. I suppose...it is so feminine. That's something I really like. And feminist blah blah blah, I'm not going to get into that here but-

No, you can take whatever definition of feminine you want.

- yeah! But I suppose it's taking something feminine and not so much being intimidating but...it just feels really great. It feels kind of empowering. It's like “Yeah, I'm wearing a dress – what about it?! I don't care. I'm wearing 17 thousands bows and I don't care. I have a bear on my bag and I don't care. I have a bear that is a bag.” But, yeah, it's reclaiming this like...dresses being sexualised and everything being sexualised. It's like, “No, I'm just wearing dresses because I like them. You can take your eyes and shove 'em up your nose, I don't care.” And it's comfortable I suppose because of that. Some people do try to sexualise it and it's like, “Nooooo, please stop. Stop that right now.” But it's just, it's just something that feels comfortable for me because I don't like dressing sexual. There's nothing wrong with it. I just personally don't like it. And that's just something that's really big about it, it's just unapologetically girly.

Yeah, which is something I find really interesting. Because there's a terrible thing, I think particularly in Western culture, even though young girls are some of the biggest, most loyal consumers in the world and a really important target demographic. And, so, the world is telling them, “You want these things, you should spend the money” but they're also belittling what they're interested in. And it's terrible.

Yes! That makes me so angry. Particularly when you think of like, Directioners. Kids who like things that are targeted at them and then they're ridiculed because of it. It's weird. It's like, “You should like these things but don't like these things because it makes you stupid.” Nooo, noo, let them have their fun. I was an MCR kid, I cried because I couldn't go and see them. I don't care. Hehehe.

Yeah, but, before that there was the Beatles and T-Rex.

Exactly.

It just seems terrible that they belittle young girls.

Yeah. It is a big thing with this fashion. It is so...it's so obscure and so different. Particularly when you're walking down the street. ...[You get] people's heads turning. A lot of it isn't so much ridicule but people don't understand it. It's like, “Someone is wearing a thing that I've never seen before. This is strange. How do I react? I don't know how to react. Short circuit.”

I'm really interested in Japanese culture so I know what I'm looking at but do people know what they're looking at? Do they kind of ask you questions and stuff?

We do get some people who come along and they know what it is. And they know the word. They're like, “Oh, you're wearing Lolita!” And we're like, “Ohhh! You said the word, you said the thing!”

And that's the particular word you, personally go with?

Generally...it's easier. It is an umbrella term as well, it brings together all like the substyles of Lolita. It's a really unfortunate name but that's the name Japanese people went with. Because they just thought it was a cute name...

Yeah...

Ohhh...(sighs). So, sometimes we say, “It's called Lolita...but it's influenced by Victorian dress and blah blah and Alice in Wonderland...”

So, I mean, what's the process? You said yourself there's all the layers. Does it take you long to get ready each day...or do you have it down to a fine art?

Hehehe, I'd like to think I have it down to a fine art. I mean most days if I'm wearing lolita to college it takes me maybe, ten, fifteen minutes with makeup. It depends on how much sleep I've had to be honest....hehehe. Not very long. I wouldn't tend to go mad when I'm getting ready to go into college unless I've just handed in an essay and feel great! But, yeah, it's ten, fifteen minutes.

Which is pretty standard.

Yeah, it's fairly standard. People are like, “Oh, it takes so long.” I'm like, “No, it doesn't! I got this. I got this down.” 

***

So, there you are! Turns out there's a lot more to Lolita than just the adorable exterior that meets the eye - it's about expressing yourself, defining your femininity for yourself and celebrating being a girl. A big thank you to Josephine for her time and here's a link to her own blog and tumblr (which she tells me she uses more).

Winona Forever.

I'm having such a Winona moment.

It began (all over again) on New Year's Eve. Daniel and I were stressed trying to make plans so we ultimately decided to be alone and make cocktails and watch movies. The movie was Heathers and the only agreement on it that we had was that Winona is and was a babe.

And then I, of course, started googling her streetstyle. Hooooo, boy. That's the clincher. Per-fection.

Winona is the epitome of ease, cool and boyishness. And her varying hair is always so ON. Very very. Things I love and aspire to. These are, perhaps, some of the most blogged pictures ever but what can you do?

Not streetstyle but it's just so pretty. That hair!

More Paris, More Laziness.

I've kinda been hibernating. Being home this Christmas has been all kinds of lovely. I've just surrounded myself with family and friends and ignored the internet. Usually I miss my beloved Mistress Internet a really worrying amount but not this time. It's kinda nice not being glued to a computer.

Sorry for being a slow-poster once more but here are some more shots of Paris - some are overtly fashion related and others are just pretty.

Durer Street Style.

This is me studying. (Okay, so not technically the making of Durer Street Style images but engaging with the history of images.)

Yes, I do this on a full-time basis. I get to surround myself with the best of humanity daily.

Just finished editing an essay on prints in Northern Europe c. 1480-1550 and that meant lots of reading about Durer. I especially enjoyed the book below - the production costs must have been astronomical but it's so worth it, huge, full-page images in colour and of the most amazing quality.

I've always loved his work, there's something beautiful and yet dark and tortured about him. His self-portraits are particularly intriguing and seem all the more relevant to a world which is now all about the individual, "selfies" and expressing ourselves. They can be somewhat painful to look at as his aspirations, hopes and motives seem so terribly obvious - they're almost too honest and revealing. 

However, he does show himself to be a particularly stylish man. Check out the 'do and fur coat below, held together at the breast almost à la Jil Sander.