Friday, 17 February 2017

LFW AW17 - Day I

Day one of LFW started off slow and calm, which is great, considering how mad the next few days are going to be. I couldn't sleep in as much as I wanted as I was plagued by dreams of being late for shows, waking up a whole day late. I have no idea why I was so worried about time this season but I was. Maybe it was just general stress catching up with me all of a sudden.

Once I got into the city, I went and checked out the press lounge I'd been invited to use (which is in the incredibly swish ME Hotel) before grabbing lunch. And at this point, I was nice and chilled out and ready to take things a little easier this season. Which was when things suddenly took a turn.

I arrived at my first show for the day, a presentation for Haizhen Wang, and while I loved the industrial-looking set, performance of the models , the silhouettes and styling, the whole thing was rather ruined by the jostling crowd that was largely made up of non-industry individuals. I don't begrudge their attendance of the show but it was very hard to see anything and very frustrating for those of us there to work. I stayed for two rounds of the models passing through, lingering for around an hour total, in order to actually see everything and get some photographs for the social media posts I was required to contribute.

Downing a glass of Prosecco as I left in order to ease my stress, I launched into the madness of the line-up of shows that I had over the course of the afternoon. Next, I hit up the Roberta Einer presentation in the Saw Swee Hock Student Centre, an architectural delight. The collection was a game of contrasts; pretty pinks and hot fuschias, leather and satin, power suits and sweet dresses, pouty sex-pots and bashful maidens. Indeed, the strong contrasts and clear characters gave the models the freedom to have fun, rather than merely stand about, and the whole presentation clearly reflected the playful and cheeky ethos of the brand.

After that I scooted over to the Paul Costelloe show at the Waldorf, messing up my original plans, as the lines and madness I'd faced all day had set my schedule right back. But the Costelloe show was just what the doctored ordered, a salve to the chaos: champagne (the real deal), front row, a stunning hotel. And, of course, the collection wasn't half bad either. In fact, Mr Costelloe's little dance with a model as he did a curtain call, reflected the renewed vigour and energy he showed this season. A/W is always more interesting as it gives him freedom to work in the tweeds, knits and leathers he utilises so well but also allows for layering and bolder, edgier looks. This season was a blend of 80s cocktail dresses, Gossip Girl tweed dresses, romantic billowing shirts and high collars, and dramatic hoods, sleeves and silhouettes. All in rich autumnal shades and bright pops of colour. Costelloe's energy and enthusiasm continues to put us all to shame.

From there, I dashed on to the Milo.Maria show in King's College, which presented a very cool office. Devil Wears Prada, eat your heart out. But, also: thank God I don't work in that environment. I can't imagine looking that cool and composed in the office. Think preppy sixties tones and silhouettes, tailored, dramatic outerwear, slinky satins, pussy-bow blouses and glimpses of flesh.

And, then, I finally finished the day with my beloved Sadie Williams, where her signature use of multiple bright colours and geometric patterns in looks, sportswear inspiration and foiled fabrics was still in place, as per, but there was also a more casual, relaxed and streetwear-inspired vibe...

Tomorrow's the long day so I'll sign off now and get some sleep! Look forward to my next post, it's bound to be a good one.



























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