Thursday, 25 February 2016

Manuel Facchini AW16

Manuel Facchini's AW16 Presentation, Metamorphosis, drew inspiration from British Sculptor Richard Sweeney and the gothic architecture of Michael Hansmeyer and presented us with brooding looks and beautiful garments. 

The collection saw models, dressed and painted moodily, juxtaposed against the pastel blue walls, cream mouldings, chandeliers and large windows, streaming light, of Carlton House. The effect was all rather dream-like and surreal with all of it emphasised by the fact that the models were raised on plinths and the shard-like sculptural installations dotted about the room which mirrored the already dazzling light as well as the garments, surroundings and observers. It felt a little like one had fallen down the proverbial rabbit-hole.

The clothes themselves were largely monochromatic and all channelled the undulating movement and optical illusions of Sweeney's work in the asymmetric hems and necklines, geometric patterns and pleating. The presence of Hansmeyer, meanwhile, was apparent in the tremendous level of detail at play and the overall atmosphere of the collection. The combination of the two made the gothic into something that felt new and thoroughly organic, as if it was more than the clothes she wore but an expression of the very being of Facchini's girl - but it also felt a little alien. It was as though one was standing amongst the wreckage of some spaceship, surrounded by impossibly beautiful, well-coiffed, stylish and brooding extraterrestrials that were channelling one part goth, one part biker chick.

High necks, bodycon silhouettes, leather, sheer panels, the use of gold, silver and gun metal eyelets embellishing sleeves and trouser legs, lace and layering were all employed but everything was pulled together and made cohesive by that restricted palette and the pervasive atmosphere of the garments as well as the simple styling with a bold eye and slicked back hair.

I can totally get on board (the spaceship) with this.














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