So, my highlights this time around are extra special. Here are the best collections and brands that I encountered at LFW SS19.
1. Katie Ann McGuigan
I'm a bit of a smug arsehole, in general, which is why Katie's SS19 collection was all the more gratifying for me. I was at her first show, at Fashion Scout, years ago and called her as an incredible talent right away. To see her have her first standalone show on the official LFW schedule and for her to kill it once more proved me right in picking her out and that only delighted me. Her collection, celebrating the unity that can be displayed in sports culture, takes elements of football kits and sportswear and adds ruffles and pleats, transforming something often seen as "masculine". The use of colour, as ever, was bold and brilliantly executed and the accessories showed a keen understanding of streetwear and what people really want. Bigger and brighter things are ever ahead for this talented designer.
2. Xu Zhi
Two Temple Place, a stunning Gothic Revival building that features stained glass windows, gargoyles perched outside, rich wood panelling, chandeliers and more, played host to Xu Zhi's Emily Dickinson-inspired SS19 collection. The presentation was a magical experience, guiding the guests through the building to various tableaux of paired models against dramatically lit sets, and even the jostling (often rude) crowds and German couple sharply cursing them couldn't ruin it. Delicate, elegant and leaving a strong impact, the collection was poetic and filled with pieces that were at once dreamy and utterly wearable.
3. Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura was actually my first show of the season, landing me on Brick Lane first thing in the morning on Friday. And it woke me up right away. The collection was inspired by the time that the designer's time, while growing up, in the countryside village where her grandparents lived, and getting ready in their Sunday best for mass and occasions. The church bells that tolled during the show were a little triggering but the lacy dresses, lace kid gloves, headscarves, ruffles, flounces, and cool denim looks majorly inspiring and well worth getting out of bed for...
4. Isosceles Lingerie
On my first trip around the designer showrooms - a scouting trip to inform my next, proper visit the following day - I noticed Isosceles Lingerie. The neon mesh caught my eye right away. Then, upon getting the lookbook, I read the accompanying notes from one of the models, writer Cara Scheffler, and it sealed the deal for the brand. It opened with Scheffler talking about being upskirted while furiously trying to fit in grocery shopping between meetings in New York and being too busy to be upset by it. The text goes on to explain that the idea that lingerie is for the person wearing it and not anyone else is almost redundant at this point. It's just simply the case. The campaign is all about claiming ownership of your body and presenting it how and when you choose. And I am totally on board.
5. Nelson
As I noted, I encountered a lot more kindness this season and one of the gentlest, loveliest soles (geddit it?) of all was Jamie Nelson, shoemaker and designer at the Melbourne-based footwear brand Nelson. Made to order and customisable, the shoes from this brand are sustainably made, stunning and very special.
Can all fashion weeks be this chill and filled with impeccably-made beauty, please?
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