Showing posts with label Goth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Goth. Show all posts

Monday, 13 February 2017

The internet and style - The Migration of Subcultures

When I was fifteen, I fell madly and utterly in love with the Ramones and, quickly thereafter, The Clash, The Damned, The Sex Pistols and a whole host of other punk bands. The music lead me to the style and suddenly gave me something to focus on. Through my love for punk, I refined my own sense of personal style and found an "identity".

I've discussed this before, but a friend and I once had a conversation about this period of our lives, years later. We hadn't known each other then but both felt that, upon reflection, we had embraced subcultures as shields. When people weren't nice to us and we were lost and confused, stuck halfway between child and adult, these subcultures made us part of something bigger and we didn't have to feel so adrift. When people weren't nice to us, it was because of the music we liked and how we presented ourselves, not because of any flaw in our personalities, not because we were unlikeable. Subcultures fueled our bullies but hardened us against them at the same time.

Subcultures were a way of wearing "who you are" on the outside. They were a way of being able to identify potentially like-minded people at a glance.

But subcultures as we once knew them are dying.

The internet means that you don't have to wait until you go to a bigger town for a day, for a gig or merely dressed in your genre, in order to find like-minded people. It means that anyone, anywhere can find people with similar interests and outlooks - no matter how niche they might be.

And, so, it has been documented that subcultures are dying in the way that we used to know them. People don't need to clothe themselves in their identities anymore and they don't need to focus on one thing, they have access to a world of possibilities and references, even more than I did just a few years ago. When I first read about this vanishing of fashion subcultures as we knew them, I was sad, incredibly sad. Will teen movies no longer have goth kids and skaters and preps and nerds? Will the tribes that created a landscape of visual interest disappear? While they haven't been such a pronounced thing in Ireland for some time now, the idea of them being gone made a fashion nerd like me a little nostalgic and achey. The slow reduction into tropes to be recycled and taken from context on runways, turned me into a grumpy old man, hankering for times gone by (and, in many cases, long gone before I was even actually born, if I'm to be honest).

Yet, while this downturn has been documented by design historians and sociologists alike, even the layman can see that it is not necessarily the absolute end for fashion subcultures. The internet has long been a second home to subcultures, a place where new fashion tribes are bred and born. And, now, Instagram, Tumblr and Youtube mean that physically vocal proponents of subcultures and styles can be given a platform, hone their look, record it to perfection and, even, become a star because of it. Hell, their look might even become their career.

These new and reimagined subcultures may not be spotted lingering outside certain Dublin buildings, causing a nuisance, any more but they are out there, dotted across the globe, crafting a sophisticated image, quoting sources left and right and living on. Take Lolita, for example, a subculture that has divided into endless sub-genres and subcultures of its own and which has moved from the streets of Tokyo to a vast online community worldwide. In fact, in moving online, it has been given new life, perhaps sustained life, and spawned niches so specific that it can boggle the mind.

Subcultures aren't truly dead yet. They've been reborn as something more personal, more professional and more cultivated. They no longer seem to be born of unified ideas and movements belonging to specific and different generations but, rather, are at the beck and call of this generation, who have developed the skills to morph and manipulate according to their own desires. Perhaps the goths and skaters, as we once knew them, are largely invisible on the streets nowadays, but they have not died out. They have merely migrated.

And, maybe, if you're lucky, you'll get to see a rare mass-gathering IRL for a con or event.

dscn9186_20685399658_o
Sarah, a friend and lover of Lolita styles


dscn2937_15520947123_o
Josie, another friend and lover of Lolita


img_4656_25261423155_o
Gothic themes and inspired makeup being adopted at a fashion show


img_4727_24835339889_o
Paul Costelloe taking a cue from punk a couple of season back

*

Liked this post? Want more?

Follow me here using google friend connect or bloglovin.

Or follow me on tumblr - twitter - facebook - instagram.


Friday, 27 February 2015

Giles AW15

The Victorians hold less interest for me than what came before. Regency, or even Baroque, is much more my cup of tea. Not only did they throw a prudish spanner in the works and set gender equality back aeons but their version of lace and modesty was just too fussy, too contrived. It's all embroidered velvets in garish shades and poor proportions.

Yet reinventions of Victorian fashion, like that at Giles AW15, hold boundless appeal to me. A little bit Lestat, a little kinky and wonderfully dark. I mean, the leather frock coat? I could wear that all day, every day and never get bored or love it less. High lace collars with mini-skirts. Waists falling at more natural points. Menswear tailoring for female garments. Making being very much covered up into something overtly, palpably sexy - taking sensibilities of that period into the hands of an empowered, assured woman of ours. Theatrical explosions of ruffles and bows. Vampy black lips and little else in the way of make-up.

The success here is in the re-imagining. The heart of the garments, and even their purposeful containment of the body, remains the same but the way it is expressed and how it is interpreted is different. The woman who wears Giles is choosing to leave more to the imagination but she is a bit of a minx, she winks at us. She knows what she is doing rather than being forced to conform to standards of the time. And she has a flair for the dramatic - you won't miss her when she arrives at the party.

It's enough to make a wanna-goth swoon.
















(Images via vogue.co,uk by Indigital)

P.S. It's great to see Andreja Pejic stomping the runway once more x

Liked this post? Want more?

Follow me here using google friend connect or bloglovin.

Or follow me on tumblr - twitter - facebook.

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Gothic // Architecture

Have I mentioned I've been in a witchy mood lately? I've always vibed on Gothic style but, alas, I was a punk as a teen and we were destined to be star-crossed lovers. Still, I like to read Romance poets, eye up pointed arches and dream of what could have been. And, sure, what else would you wear to a graveyard mass but witchy boots, a blood-red lace skater dress accented with a wicked-sharp black collar and a trusty leather jacket? I may look all sun-kissed and freckled on the outside but my innards are blackened as the Trials I wrote my LC History project on. 

Enjoy my perving on Gothic Revival architecture (sacrilegious to pose in front of a church, according to my brother - I call it appreciating) and creating a moodboard of my photos over the weekend. Careful not to nick yourself on those ogives.

Dress - Primark, Jacket - Upstairs at Quinns (I never remember the brand), Boots - Deena and Ozzy













Mad or inspired? You decide. And try not to call a witch hunt if it's the former. Thnks.

Thursday, 24 July 2014

Alexander McQueen AW14 Campaign.

Ugh. So in love.

I'm feeling a witchy vibe coming on for A/W this year. I've gotten the perfect boots, next are the perfect clunky heeled loafers. And a cape. I need a damn good cape.

For this reason, my life-long romance with Gothic and Romantic literature, my deep-seated love for Robert Smith and much more, I'm DYING over the AW14 campaign images from Alexander McQueen. Srsly. So good. Loss for real words.

Featuring the lovely Edie Campbell, they're all my gothiest dreams come true. Siouxsie Sioux me now, this ones a heart-stopper.

image002

image003

image010

alexander mcqueen 2014 fall winter campaign2 Edie Campbell Gets Equestrian for Alexander McQueens Fall 2014 Campaign

alexander mcqueen 2014 fall winter campaign1 Edie Campbell Gets Equestrian for Alexander McQueens Fall 2014 Campaign

What do you make of this? As squee-crazy over it as me?

Monday, 29 July 2013

Gothic Revival

...I mean the architecture, obviously. Not quite sure where the outfit falls...I'm crazy about the building I'm pictured in front of - it's my local church and I did my dissertation on its architect, John Bourke. No one had really studied him before so mine was the first in-depth study of his career which was pretty cool. They've even put my work on file in The Irish Architectural Archive!

But back to the outfit. If I had to give you its recipe it'd be one part grunge revival, one part punk and about 100 parts Colette. Such a quintessentially me outfit - comfort, black, oversize on top and skinny on bottom and minimal accessories with a nod to my musical roots. 

I had forgotten how fun outfit posts were - expect a little more of them from now on (hopefully)! Woop!

548264_590100664373600_1671572330_n

60403_590100011040332_1930285848_n

994545_590100601040273_660016542_n (1)

1001071_590100407706959_247122629_n

995942_590100151040318_915532325_n

1004470_590100454373621_794715951_n

Tee - Urban Outfitters - Pants - Zara - Sunglasses - Topshop - Boots - New Look - Clutch and wristband - Self-made

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Manic about MANIAMANIA

Lookbooks now rival editorials on a regular basis. It's not just making the clothes look good and buyable. It's an artform, a mood. I am LOVING MANIAMANIA's Autumn 2013 lookbook. The campaign is comprised of stills and a vid inspired by 1930s actress Theda Bara (known for her gothic tendencies) and star Ruby Jean Wilson. The video, with its use of witchy animals such as owls and snakes has reminded some of Harry Potter or anything witch-like, but the stills remind me more of dutch painting. The lighting and still life elements wouldn't be amiss in 16th century oils and momenti morii such as grapes are included. There's a dark, sad beauty about the images that I'm crazy for.

So much so, that I almost overlooked the jewellery being showcased itself. Almost. It would so fit in my wardrobe.




Sunday, 12 August 2012

Keira Knightley for Bazaar UK - September 2012


Have you seen a more perfect cover for a September issue?! Sigh. So gothy. So beautiful. Totally feeling the King Arthur influence - Keira Knightley as Guinevere is perfection outside of movies...I really cannot squee enough. She's is achingly beautiful; as is the styling and photography. 

I never thought I'd want a chainmail dress so much. 


^ LOVE this shot. ^



^ And this one ^



Sidenote: When reading the magazine in the car, I began to take photos of the cover for the craic as our drive was unending and I'd already read it cover to cover. I discovered that her eyes said murder, while her mouth said pouty...quite like a certain someone from How I Met Your Mother.

Also, photos of photos, taken at an angle, make anyone's face absolutely terrifying...