Heathcliff as a band and Cathy as a fan: Alistair James AW17

Funnily enough, in spite of my fondness for Austen and period dramas, it was only in recent years that I finally interacted with any of the Bronte clan. Considering their moody and dark romance, it really is a wonder but I guess the taste was a little more Austen during my childhood and both have a tendency to be given rather dusty press that can put off younger readers.

Nevertheless, my introduction came with the release of Fukuraga's 2011 "Jane Eyre", starring Mia Wasikowska and Michael Fassbender. I remember insisting that my then boyfriend and his parents chose it among our options for something to watch one lazy evening and quickly became utterly absorbed and very bad company. However, it was "Wuthering Heights" that made me really fall in at the deep end.

I don't know why, really. Heathcliff is kind of everything I despise in a man and, yet... And, yet, in every adaptation and the original text he is utterly charismatic and I cannot help but be drawn to him and the gothic tale of passion, hatred, disaster, grief and pain that centres around his and Cathy's cursed love story.

So, during the brief moment I had to dash around the Designer Showrooms at LFW this season (only an hour), in my chaotic haze, my attention was immediately captured by a collection described as "'Wuthering Heights; if Heathcliff was a band and Cathy were an obsessive fan". I was sold immediately and the garments I was able to peruse there and then were right up my alley; gothy babydoll dresses, lots of black lace, elevated band tees. Upon nerding with one of the designers over the concept, I took a business card and some photographs as a reminder and went on my merry way.

I was feeling a lot of designers in the moment that day but that Bronte collection stuck in my head. So, I trawled through the photos and business cards and managed to find the name, weeks later, when the whirling around my brain refused to stop; Alistair James.

Alistair James is a two-man show; eponymously named after, and the brainchild of, Nicholas Alistair Walsh and David James Wise. The pair are a bit of dream team with Walsh being a womenswear designer who was worked with Gareth Pugh and Alexander McQueen and Wise a textiles designer who has worked at many labels, including Alexander McQueen.

Their AW17 collection takes inspiration from the Brontes, who lived a short distance from Walsh's home by the moors and was designed while staying there. Alistair James' girl this season is a "playful dreamer" and "lovesick consumed by her infatuation [sic]". With customised prints of abstract ladies frolicking in a winter garden and "Heathcliff" print, featuring lustful figures and lingering eyes, the collection is presented in tones of black, white, dusty blue and vibrant reds and pinks and includes a recurring silhouette inspired by Charlotte's "Thackerey" dress. Perhaps the most iconic element, however, are the Heathcliff slogan sweaters that are embroidered with phrases from the novel and give a nod to Heathcliff as a band.

Moody, sensual and cool, the collection is wearable and pretty with just enough theatricality and nods to the writers to keep fans of the works and fans of the aesthetic alike rather happy, indeed.

(Images courtesy of Alistair James)

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LFW AW17 - Day II

Today, things started early and hurried. I dashed into the Paula Knorr presentation where she was serving up an essay on the creative process and spangled, vibrant garments - not to mention a gig and collab with experimental pop duo MADSIUSOVANDA. Then I scooted right along to CECI where the palette was decidedly more muted; all navy and black billowing satin, restraint, denim, super-wide-legged pants and cropped faux fur. To cap off the morning, I hurried along to Sabinna's ode to first loves. Little bouquets sat on the seats for the first few rows and things like "be mine or go away" were scrawled across garments and under the eyes of the models. And the clothes? Romantic, corseted, hand-crocheted flowers, silk, velvet, dungarees, embroidered coats and pretty dresses. Love's young dream but with a twist, a little cooler and more than just pretty.

Lunch was prolonged and leisurely and spent with my best childhood friend. It took up the next three hours but it felt like only a moment and then I was back in another queue, waiting for another show. Said show was Katie Ann McGuigan, a young Irish designer that sent swaggeringly confident and vibrant technicolour down jackets, leather dresses, oversize knits and sweeping coats (and a cloak). Upon leaving and grabbing a tea, I came to the realisation that my next to shows were too close in time and far apart in distance to make it to both. As my feet ached, I chose the closer of the two. When I met Trinity students and we bonded over my alma mater, in the line for the next show, it made the forty-five minute wait a little easier to bear - though it was hard to ignore the fact that I definitely could have made it to the other show and back given the extra wait. But the wait was very much worth it as Han Wen's collection is my favourite I saw at LFW this season, so far. Edgy, cool, full of leather, flowing bell-bottoms, trailing ribbons, bold colours and on it styling: it's basically as cool as I want to be and look in a collection.

Right, my eyes are almost falling out of my head. Halfway through now....

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LFW AW17 - Day I

Day one of LFW started off slow and calm, which is great, considering how mad the next few days are going to be. I couldn't sleep in as much as I wanted as I was plagued by dreams of being late for shows, waking up a whole day late. I have no idea why I was so worried about time this season but I was. Maybe it was just general stress catching up with me all of a sudden.

Once I got into the city, I went and checked out the press lounge I'd been invited to use (which is in the incredibly swish ME Hotel) before grabbing lunch. And at this point, I was nice and chilled out and ready to take things a little easier this season. Which was when things suddenly took a turn.

I arrived at my first show for the day, a presentation for Haizhen Wang, and while I loved the industrial-looking set, performance of the models , the silhouettes and styling, the whole thing was rather ruined by the jostling crowd that was largely made up of non-industry individuals. I don't begrudge their attendance of the show but it was very hard to see anything and very frustrating for those of us there to work. I stayed for two rounds of the models passing through, lingering for around an hour total, in order to actually see everything and get some photographs for the social media posts I was required to contribute.

Downing a glass of Prosecco as I left in order to ease my stress, I launched into the madness of the line-up of shows that I had over the course of the afternoon. Next, I hit up the Roberta Einer presentation in the Saw Swee Hock Student Centre, an architectural delight. The collection was a game of contrasts; pretty pinks and hot fuschias, leather and satin, power suits and sweet dresses, pouty sex-pots and bashful maidens. Indeed, the strong contrasts and clear characters gave the models the freedom to have fun, rather than merely stand about, and the whole presentation clearly reflected the playful and cheeky ethos of the brand.

After that I scooted over to the Paul Costelloe show at the Waldorf, messing up my original plans, as the lines and madness I'd faced all day had set my schedule right back. But the Costelloe show was just what the doctored ordered, a salve to the chaos: champagne (the real deal), front row, a stunning hotel. And, of course, the collection wasn't half bad either. In fact, Mr Costelloe's little dance with a model as he did a curtain call, reflected the renewed vigour and energy he showed this season. A/W is always more interesting as it gives him freedom to work in the tweeds, knits and leathers he utilises so well but also allows for layering and bolder, edgier looks. This season was a blend of 80s cocktail dresses, Gossip Girl tweed dresses, romantic billowing shirts and high collars, and dramatic hoods, sleeves and silhouettes. All in rich autumnal shades and bright pops of colour. Costelloe's energy and enthusiasm continues to put us all to shame.

From there, I dashed on to the Milo.Maria show in King's College, which presented a very cool office. Devil Wears Prada, eat your heart out. But, also: thank God I don't work in that environment. I can't imagine looking that cool and composed in the office. Think preppy sixties tones and silhouettes, tailored, dramatic outerwear, slinky satins, pussy-bow blouses and glimpses of flesh.

And, then, I finally finished the day with my beloved Sadie Williams, where her signature use of multiple bright colours and geometric patterns in looks, sportswear inspiration and foiled fabrics was still in place, as per, but there was also a more casual, relaxed and streetwear-inspired vibe...

Tomorrow's the long day so I'll sign off now and get some sleep! Look forward to my next post, it's bound to be a good one.

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Vetements AW17 - I'm okay with being the butt of the joke.

I've always had a bit of trepidation about Vetements. While I'm one for poking fun at yourself or your surroundings, at calling out hierarchies and questioning established ideas, I was always cautious of the moment where Demna would turn around and slap us with the words, "No, I really was just fucking with you all and chancing my arm completely." I was afraid of defending something so passionately (which I've had to), only to be the butt of the joke. I mean, who likes feeling silly?

I was also afraid I was merely being caught up in the hype. That I just wanted to be one of the people in the know. That I had so long felt alienated as a young adult amongst my peers that I was quick to blindly jump head first into the legions of fashion "insiders" - really just another parade of people wanting to be accepted and ready to nod along in agreement, even when they aren't really sure.

Show the latest Vetements collection and the skeptics you faced so far are sure to smile in triumph. It seems rather indefensible. Like things dragged out of charity shops and presented up to people with too much money or too much of a desire to seem cool and who are willing to throw stupid amounts of cash at it. People who will grin as they are being swindled.

At first glance, it does seem like a bit of a joke. And not even a subtle one, at that. Vetements AW17 presented fashion stereotypes, "tribes", if you will. Parading down the runway was a cast of models that were diverse in size, gender and ethnicity and amongst them were bouncers, brokers, Parisiennes, tourists, hooligans, bros, Texans, emos, punks, metal heads, pensioners and, even, a sexy secretary. Many of the looks veered perilously close to costumes and much looked like something I wouldn't accept as a freebie, let alone pay for. "Wouldn't be caught dead in" comes to mind.

At first glance, it seems all very dystopian and morbid. A mish-mash of ideas that have circulated over the years and that have been resurrected and presented to us again.

And, of course, that is one way to look at it. And, perhaps, I give the brand too much credit when I say, "What then of Modern Art?"

It is hard to imagine now but Monet had his critics. Van Gogh was basically a life-long loser. And Duchamp was very much considered a chancer - still probably is by many, tbh. While I'm not outright saying Vetements will stand the test of time the same way (we could very well look back two years from now and shake our heads at it, label it all madness), I've decided to allow myself freely give them the benefit of the doubt instead of being cynical. We could all do with a little more hope these days, could we not?

I've decided to just enjoy Vetements. To watch them with curiosity. I won't be buying the awful tweed jackets or denim with the brand name emblazoned across the crotch but I appreciate the ideas and messages at hand. The discourse about fitting in, dress codes, elevating and celebrating the ordinary, and, always, how they imbue everything with their signature satirical approach. Even if you argue that some are reading more into elements than was ever intended, giving it all more depth than was originally there...well, that's kind of how all art works, isn't it? And Vetements have always been shown during couture week, not alongside RTW shows, so it isn't too much of a stretch to think them a little more artistic and conceptual than most.

Also, in my quest to be fair, I cannot help but point out that taste plays an important role here. Were we to look at many other shows, we would find much is often not to our own tastes, even if we like the overall vibe, and, certainly, much is not wearable (by most people) as presented in the actual show. The styling and presentation at fashion shows is the last time the designers hold their original ideas close to their chests before they are broken up and sold and restyled and absorbed into existing wardrobes all over the world.

Most likely, even the most ardent fans won't be rocking up to parties or down the street in full-on bouncer or sexy secretary cosplay. Instead, the ideas and pieces will be taken and used and diffused and transformed. It'll all be made a little more palatable. Perhaps the G-Dragons of the world will be able to stick closer to the original and make it work but the rest of us mere mortals cannot expect to do the same so readily.

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 29, 2017 at 10:43am PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 28, 2017 at 11:01am PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 28, 2017 at 8:16am PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 28, 2017 at 4:24am PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 28, 2017 at 12:12am PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 27, 2017 at 12:05pm PST

A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on Jan 25, 2017 at 8:49am PST

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Clothing Chats: Marc Jacobs fails to impress my brother...

Instead of doing a regular show review, I decided to start a new series where I record a discussion between myself and someone less knowledgeable about fashion or less interested in it or someone who isn't part of the target audience. Basically people with fresh, less biased opinions. 

Today, I begin with me and my little brother discussing Marc Jacobs AW15-16 Mens.

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Me: So, I'll show you through the looks and see what you make of it...what about the first look?

Le Bro: It looks like a woman from the 1920s.

The 1920s? Do you not think the hair and styling is more nineties?

Wait...is that a woman or a man?

A man.

Oh, it looks like a woman cross-dressing in the 1920s.

So...you're saying the clothes are like something from the 20s but the hair is throwing you off?

Yeah...heh...

Okay...what about this one?

He just looks like he doesn't give a shit.

(Scrolls)

Okay, so, it's a bit of a jump there. Throwing in an animal print.

Oh, that's interesting.

Would you wear animal print?

No. And it looks like he does't want to wear it either. He looks pretty disgusted with it, to be honest.

....

Okay, the styling is a bit funny because...y'know...fashion. But look at the entirety of the look.

I don't approve of the hat. Even if he was wearing it right. It's just an ugly, ugly hat.

Oh-ho-ho-kay. There you go, Mr Jacobs!

Em...so that's a bit more normal.

What about the hem-length? That's where they're changing it up a bit.

Is that the shirt? (Points to end of shirt at the back, peeking out from under the jumper)

Yeah.

Oh. I don't like that the back is longer than the front.

'cause that's something that's been a thing in women's clothes for quite some time now.

It looks very rigid. It looks like he's wearing cardboard. And the shoes are very clunky looking.

Em, I think everything's just been pressed to look very sharp and stylised.

...

He looks like a Death Eater or something. His handbag is certainly interesting. His coat's nice though. I'd probably wear that. Again, I wouldn't wear the hat...that one's not ugly, I just don't like that sort of hat. The other one was just plain ugly. I don't know what he was thinking with a white hat...Fucking manky...

(Muffled laughter) White hat... (Laughs again)

Oh, I'd wear that. Not with that shirt but...

Just no. It looks like a mix between a bathrobe and an Aran jumper.

Well, I think it is going for an Aran jumper and I think the whole collection - what I'm getting from it - is trying...

Is it Irish?

Maybe not Irish but kind of fifties, sixities, classic pieces. So, this is like the way men used to dress. But the styling is a bit more nineties.

...they seem to all be kind of a similar theme...

Well, yeah, that's what they do with collections. They try to make them cohesive as if they've all been inspired by the same things. So, this is the print you liked before in the suit.

I like that coat.

Yeah, it's a good classic trench with a twist.

No, I don't like that.

What about it?

Anything. I don't like the mix. I don't like the colours. I don't like how it all looks together. I don't like the leather jacket.

Yeah, I'm not sure about it either.

I'm very picky when it comes to leather jackets.

I just don't think the cut of it is very nice. It's kinda cheap-looking.

That pocket looks stupid. Actually, it makes him look fat too.

I think that might be the stance.

Okay, now he's just trying to be a pimp.

(Laughing)

Em...no. It'd be too warm. I know there'd be an awful smell. The boots are kind of nice.

Well, I'm assuming it's probably faux.

Yeah, well, even if it's faux you're just asking for smell-collecting in that.

(Laughs) He looks like a bird.

Again, this is something that's been around in women's clothes...that kind of fuzzy fabric.

Oh...it's kind of like...what was I watching? Charlie Haughey's (Former Irish Prime Minister) mistress used to wear a coat kind of like that. I can see a French woman wearing that, to be honest.

A French woman...I see.

Oh good lord! It's like a massive scarf.

...yeah, that's what it is.

Looks like he's a thumb.

He looks like a thumb?!

(Both laugh)

Huge scarves are coming in next AW - why can't capes come in? - They were already in for women this AW. Capes? Capes are kind of always in when they're done right.

No, I mean cloaks that go around here (points to neck and shoulders) and is a big wintery one (stands and gestures wildly) that goes down to here (points to floor).

Em. Well, that's a hard look to pull off, I have to say.

That's kinda cool.

Yeah, I like that.

That looks like something Joey Ramone would have worn.

Who? 

Joey Ramone. 

Oh. Eh, maybe too much colour for him though.

Ehhh...not a fan of any of that really. The scarf's okay but the rest looks like he went into a vintage shop and picked out the least fashionable stuff possible...No, not least fashionable but looks like he picked out the smelliest stuff possible. 

Smelliest? (Laughs)

Poorly styled lecturer.

(Laughs)

That's slightly better. I still don't like it though.

That's a funky coat. He seems to be wearing the same trousers in everything.

(Leans forward and squints) What kind of cardigan is that?...I think there's too much going on there, to be honest. It looks like he's wearing a zoot suit with a cardigan from the sixties.

He looks like something from an anime. I like that. 

It's very streamlined.

I don't like double-breasted jackets though.

I don't normally either. I'm not sure about the colour as well but I like the whole look.

Now he looks like a PHD student who's trying to be a lecturer but knows he shouldn't dress exactly like him but he's failing in every respect.

Wow.

That's probably the worst thing I've seen so far. White jacket? I'm sorry but that's just not something anyone can pull off. 

I have a white jacket.

Sorry but no.

Ooookayyy.

I like that. I like the blazer.

That just looks like it doesn't fit right to me. 

The whole thing looks like - you know those little boys that would be forced to dress up for dinner in the early 20th century?

Only with shorts.

Yeah. It looks really uncomfortable and like "Ohhh, bring me hooome."

It's just...it's open too high.

You shouldn't be able to see his shirt.

Yeah, the button should be lower. 

He looks like he hates it.

So, overall, what are you taking away from Marc Jacobs AW15?

Em, is this high fashion?

It's Ready-to-Wear. Couture isn't really a thing for men.

Well, I was thinking if it was high fashion, it was really low-key. It doesn't seem too bold except for that weird scarf thing.

So pretty safe?

Everything seems like a re-hash of things that have been going around for 300 years.

Well, that's kind of fashion. It's just whether you can put the right new spin on it.

None of it's new.

Well, few of us have truly original ideas.

Still, I was expecting a dress or a half-dress or a silk handkerchief or something.

So, what you expect from a fashion show is that they put a man in a dress? To innovate?

No, just something new

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Quite a harsh review of Marc Jacobs AW15-16 from Le Little Bro but entertaining and interesting to get the opinions of someone outside of fashion at length. I might not agree with much of what he said but I think it's good to be pulled back from the unquestioning enthusiasm show reivews can sometimes lull me into. It's good to be aware, to think more deeply, examine our reactions.

What did you think?

(Images via vogue.co,uk)

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