...other than fashion week, of course...
While I had a rocky, jet-lagged, embarrassing start in Seoul (involving publicly humiliating myself, running away in terror at a stupid mistake and being very overwhelmed by the alienness of everything) that made me so afraid I didn't want to leave my hotel, I quickly got over it and had the time of my life. I've never been alone, or away by myself, for a week before so that was a novelty but it was also a luxury that allowed me to do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted (around my fashion week schedule).
I spent one day shopping and wandering, another on a museum crawl and others exploring specific districts. I made a major dent in the long list of places I had seen in vlogs and blogs that I wanted to visit. I ate when I was hungry and skipped meals in favour of getting to the next place on my list, as I saw fit. On the other hand, I slept in in the morning at my hotel or sat in a café for hours with a book when that suited me too. It was utterly delicious levels of freedom. And Seoul itself stunned me. It was not love at first sight but now it is a very intense long-distance affair. I cannot wait to get back to do all the things I didn't get to tick off my list.
To discuss all the highs would be impossible in one post but I thought listing five of the best things I did in Seoul might help give a picture of just why I'm so obsessed with the city now.
1. Cafés
European café culture is something that I'm a massive fan of, though it is not quite present in Ireland. However, Korean café culture is on a whole other level. The majority of cafés in Seoul are beautifully designed, wonderful places, where you can avail of wifi, charge your phone, get a tasty drink and adorable snack, and relax. Often themed or within stores, I was in a couple flower cafés (a type that combines café and actual florist or incorporates a large amount of plants into the design of the store), both of Stylenanda's super-extra Pink Pool café's (one of which has an actual pool in it - though you can't swim in it), some Hanok (traditional-style houses) cafés in Insadong, a K-pop themed café that was run in collaboration with a record label, some cute neighbourhood cafés, and more.
Commonalities among them all, whether they were chains or themed or small or large, were the fact that everything is presented on a little tray looks adorable in photographs, attention-to-detail was insane and everything was Instagram-friendly. Admittedly, things in cafés are kind of expensive - you can get a nice meal for under 10,000 won but tea and cake will cost you around 15,000 won in a café - but it is worth it for the whole experience. Because that's what it is, an experience. I spent a lot of my trip in cafés, so I can't stress enough how integral they are to enjoying the city! Pro-tip: order the Yujacha (citrus tea) - as long as you're not diabetic (so sugary)!
2. Deoksugung
There are several palaces in Seoul, the most famous being the grand palace of Gyeongbokgung, and each has something different to offer. All are stunning examples of traditional architecture and culture but Deoksugung - at least on a Tuesday morning - is the most peaceful and lovely. It isn't the grandest or flashiest but it is simple and charming and I fell utterly in love. It is only a couple of quid in and then you can wander around the grounds. Most lovely is the fact that everything is arranged to frame even the least interesting, or pretty, views beautifully. A perfect postcard image is at every turn.
Crowds are relatively small and are mostly local tourists, which makes for quiet and reflective wandering and peaceful admiration of your surroundings. An added bonus is that the palace is home to some stunning 19th century Western-style buildings, one of which is home to a branch of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, where I was lucky enough to catch a great exhibition on Korean female artists. It only costs a couple thousand won more to enter and, if the exhibition that is currently on show is anything like the one I attended, it will be well-laid out, with some English information panels and some fascinating works on display. I could go on and on about this whole place, but I won't!
3. Daelim Museum
Speaking of museums, another one that I went to and loved was the Daelim Museum. More expensive than a state-owned museum, it is, however, constantly home to fascinating, wide-scale international exhibitions on interesting themes. The exhibition that I saw was called, "Paper, Present," and was made up of works from a variety of international artists and design teams that were entirely made out of paper. It made me completely rethink my idea of paper as a medium and was stunning. It was also, like so much of Korea, very Insta-friendly, and the staff were lovely enough to help a solo-traveller like me get some photos!
4. Mango Plate
So, Mango Plate is actually an app, not a place or thing, but it opened the door to some wonderful culinary experiences. It is a popular and well-used app that ranks restaurants in the city (some of it is in English) and allows users to post reviews, photographs, menus, tips and more. Extremely useful and with some discerning picks, I used it on a daily basis. However, be warned, it may lead you to places that are very much largely locals only so be sure to hold on to your courage and try new things!
5. Shopping
Like with the cafés, so many of the stores in Seoul are beautifully-designed dreams, full of wonderful things. Fashion and beauty are serious business, so if you're interested in either, you'll be delighted but there are all sorts of unique experiences that anyone can enjoy. Be sure to check out:
(a) Stylenanda: The aforementioned café isn't all there is to the place. The clothes are seriously cool, the themed Stylenanda Hotel is an insanely-extra and magical shopping experience, and their makeup brand, 3CE, is adorable. Plus, you have the cafés right there to refuel. There are two locations, in Myeongdong and Hongdae, and both are worth a visit.
(b) Ader Error: Another extra shop (technically menswear), this is half-museum, half-store and needs to be seen to be believed. Spoiler: you enter through a mattress.
(c) Gentle Monster: A sunglasses brand that has multiple locations, all themed, all several floors, all with lots of space used for everything bar displaying their wares.
(d) Department Stores: The Korean version of a high-end department store is even more elegant and perfect. Seriously. Glittering marble and powder rooms everywhere.
(e) Underground Malls: At a lot of metro stations in Seoul there are also underground shopping malls, some of which are sprawling and massive. You'll find all sorts on sale, often into the wee hours, great deals and room to bargain.
(f) Aland: Another popular chain full of Hypebeast-cool clothes (for both genders), beauty products, small homeware bits and a vintage section, this is kind of like a cooler Urban Outfitters. Plus, the one I was in had a ball pit in it. Obviously.
(g) Co-Ex Mall: With a giant stunning library/bookstore at the centre, massive food court, international highstreet chains and Korean brands, this massive mall has some beautiful surprises and is filled with gems.
I could still talk for hours and hours (and probably will, at some point) but those are just five of the best things I did in Seoul. Hopefully, I get to go back soon and add to the list!
Have you ever been to the city? What did you love? Any recommendations for my next visit?
That's all for now, 안녕!
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