Showing posts with label Maison Martin Margiela. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maison Martin Margiela. Show all posts

Thursday, 15 January 2015

How to feel about Galliano now?

I've put this post off for a couple of days as I wasn't really sure how I felt and I wanted to give myself time to think about it. But I did want to discuss Galliano's Margiela return and what I made of it. As kids we're told to forgive and forget - to move on and not hold grudges. Kids' movies are often sprinkled with messages about how we should give people second chances. Redemption is a theme all over every medium known to man.

But is this really true of adult life? Are there some things that are just unforgivable? I would argue that there are. Yet. is it even our place to choose whether or not to forgive people we do not know and will probably never meet?

It's not my place to judge the failings of others, their lapses in judgement. We merely have to trust that the structures around us (ideally) will deal with these indiscretions and make the legal judgement calls for us all. But I often struggle with these issues when it comes to artists or creators. Can you separate art and artist? Can you enjoy the work of someone who has done things you morally object to? My normal way of rationalising this is to consider how much of a fan of their work I am. If I find I can easily live without it, I do so and give the matter no further consideration. Otherwise I consider if their behaviours that I disagree with are continued, if they have apologised and if I am putting money directly into the pockets of a terrible person.

In the case of Galliano, I tried to judge how I felt objectively about his return to fashion. I tried to make sure I wasn't merely being wooed by his talent and forgetting everything I stood for. Of course, my liking his collection for Margiela (which I did) isn't going to impact him financially as a person as I won't be buying anything from it and that's not really the point of couture anyway. But, my having a voice (no matter how small) on the internet will have some teeny bit of an impact and I wanted to use it lucidly and fairly. Galliano has been missed - a rare and wonderful thing in fashion. To be so creative and impactful that your absence is noted is not something many can truly boast in the industry. The excitement his billing added to the season is not to be underestimated when so much of fashion is hype or ennui. To label him a genius is probably not to over-exaggerate. That he has apologised for the infamous incident that led to his disappearance for the past few years must also be considered and that he has returned to fashion with work firmly in mind and theatrics of old left behind. Much as we might miss that aspect of his shows - this just all seems so very respectful, if not remorseful.

Then there's the collection itself. The collision of two such big names. Two names that seem incompatible of paper. And yet, the garments speak for themselves. There's that whimsy and sense of romance of a different era that we've missed, made into a slightly different beast - more modern, sharper. You sigh at the beauty while also thinking, "Damn, that's a nice blazer. I could wear that". Wearable whimsy. Something closer to the lost art of couture that Cardin spoke of. That the pieces remind me of a fairytale with coiling, roiling beasts, jesters, warriors, witches and royalty present endear them to me further. There's something akin to storytelling present. I almost didn't want to like this collection but I cannot help it - I'm utterly enamoured. That Galliano can be so true to himself and his new house is no mean feat and that he is the first named designer for Margiela since the departure of its namesake says something. It speaks to his skill, his long servitude of fashion and the value still connected to his name.

So, where does that leave me? Somewhat conflicted still but unwilling to fight my love for what I see. Encouraged by how it was handled. Wanting to believe in second chances.

And dying to step into that fairytale on the runway.














(Images via vogue.co.uk)

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Monday, 8 July 2013

Looking Haute...but limited.

Couture is the high-point for most designers, the thing to aim for. It is closest to art in how it behaves in the market and in its very nature. It offers the opportunity to truly let creativity run free and to fully visualise a vision. Yet, it also has its limitations. These are not in what you can make but what you can do with it.

Couture finds its home on the runway, in archives, in the closets of the very rich, in editorials and in galleries. Even celebrities usually only have the items on loan. Dresses cost upwards of thousands into the hundreds of thousands - the audience is pretty limited. We can all appreciate them as things of beauty but I also think there is something sad about them. They can be seen as fuller artistic expression yet they live half-lives of being seen and rarely worn.

This couture season was somewhat staid which surprised me. I always thought that economic downturn brought out the most railing creativity...but it didn't.. While the collections were undeniably beautiful, I could not help but feel that they were safe and maybe that's what people do want these days, safety.

Still, I was somewhat disappointed. I'm a big believer in liking something and still being able to see its flaws so my criticism is not to say that I disliked collections. I just kept waiting for the moment to sit up in my seat or bounce with excitement. And it didn't really come. The closest was Viktor & Rolf's show. Vogue noted that half of the collection was bought in advance by and art collector and that the show was more performance art than traditional runway. The whole sense of questioning how shows should be conducted and the highly conceptual nature of the collection left me intrigued and refreshed.

Elie Saab was very Saab but beautiful none the less. His dresses will always be the kind women want to wear and I adore them. Gaultier did a lot of Gaultier and looked back instead of forward. I wish he'd found a more modern, surprising way to do his fantastic thang. Valentino, again, while beautiful, left something to be desired. The collection, for me, seemed too alike their ready-to-wear. Dior had concepts I really dig but stayed on the safe side of the fence. I just wish Simons had given it that kick of unexpected. Ulyana Sergeenko created the wardrobe of the Russian princess of my dreams but similarly needed a touch more of the never seen before. Maison Martin Margiela had that sense of new but not enough of it! Gimme more!

Solid design is here to stay, I just wish a new game-changing voice would emerge and shake things up good and proper. Perhaps we are in too diverse an age for such an all-encompassing voice. Who knows? I just hope people continue to question what they do and to push boundaries.










Saturday, 26 January 2013

Wednesday, 10 October 2012

Maison Martin Margiela's H&M Collaboration

For the fashion world I'm more than a little behind the times in posting about this but, unless someone starts paying me, blogging must come second to college work and, therefore, I'm not always gonna be on top of things. Anyway, while I like the clothes and the collaboration seems one of the strongest in years I can't help but feel a little...meh. I mean, these collaborations are happening so often now. I kind of miss it being an annual affair with lots of suspense and speculation, it was almost like a mini-Christmas. Besides, I don't have the money to keep up with this! 

Still, gorgeous collection. Hope it's as wonderful in person because it looks decidedly expensive and chic, you wouldn't peg it for the high street right away from the photos. And preferably it isn't gonna be too expensive...seriously, it's largely the students and bloggers who are going to wear boundary-pushing clothes as purchased from a high street store, not the mothers and professionals of the world. 

Also, love the photography. Oh, hai, Sam Taylor-Wood.

WANT THE GIANT OVERSIZE COAT. I LOVE GIANT OVERSIZED COATS. MMMM.