Chatting Nikita, careers and more with Barbara Somerville.

I loved Nikita from the moment I read the blurb. Then I watched the show and developed a major girl-crush on Maggie Q, delighted in a strong, 3D, flawed but loving female lead and was awed by the wardrobe. It became one of those shows I watched in excitement for the plot while screencapping the outfits obsessively. It was just so on-point. There was a coolness, a refreshing clarity, plenty of clean lines, a richness and attention to detail and an ease to it all that made me fall more deeply in love with the show. I was understandably delighted when Barbara Somerville, the costume designer for the show, agreed to find time to chat to me. Below she outlines her fascinating career path, opinions on style and that she and Maggie Q sometimes bought Nikita's outfits for themselves!

Moi:  Could you give me a brief outline of your background and how you came to Nikita?

 I studied fashion design and the history of fashion after graduating from high school. At the same time, I worked part-time for one of the most important retailers in Toronto. She taught me more than I could have hoped for and when she turned her store over to me, to manage for two weeks while she vacationed in Spain, it was sink or swim. You can be sure that I was going to swim. I was 18 years old! Swim, I did. She invited me to join her on her local buying expeditions and respected my voice. I was blessed and knew it!

I didn't feel intellectually challenged in the fashion course I was enrolled in, so I finished the program and went off to university to study English and Sociology. I graduated with an honours and went on to earn a parallel degree in Education. This accomplishment landed me a teaching position at the high school level where I taught English and Theatre Arts for two years. I was extremely lucky to be hired as there was a surplus of graduates and few jobs. I adored the students and loved my job, but something bigger was calling out to me.

I opened one of the most important fashion boutiques in Ontario, featuring unique pieces that I collected from everywhere. The store represented international designers, but featured the best that Canadian designers had to offer. It was a store, a concept that some attempted to copy. Greatest form of flattery, I’m told.

I sold the store 10 years along and went to work for a magazine called FASHION. After my stint in the world of advertising, I was introduced, quite by chance, to the world of film and television. A call from an acquaintance to shop for a show that was shooting in Toronto came and so it began.

Never, when I began as a buyer in the film industry, did I imagine myself sitting in the chair of the Costume Designer. I was in awe of what these people did and, in my opinion, they worked magic. After working the many positions that exist in the costume department, I was offered the position of Costume Designer. I declined, but the Producer persisted, convincing me that I was ready. He couldn't believe that I was hesitant. With his encouragement, I agreed and haven’t looked back!

It seems that everything I've done, all of the jobs that I have held, the degrees I have earned, prepared me for this position!

I worked on the first incarnation of Nikita in the 90s as the set supervisor and helped with some of the buying when time allowed. It was really something when I heard that Nikita was being revived with a new cast and new writers and when they called me to ask about my availability, I was excited to explore the notion.

Which character is easiest to dress?

Maggie Q, who played Nikita, was a dream to dress! She knew how to work everything I put her in. Her enthusiasm for 98% of what I presented to her made her delightful to dress. Yes, we had to alter almost everything because she is so tiny, but she patiently endured the long fittings we sometimes were lucky to have. It was next to impossible to find time for fittings with her because of the intense schedule she had to juggle so when we could find a couple of hours, (rare), it was a gift. Her instincts, too, were spot on about her costumes and so we collaborated well together. You can imagine how much fun it was for me to find or create those sexy mission outfits she wore in every show. Maggie did the bulk of her own stunts and so all of these costumes had to allow her the opportunity to stretch, bend, jump, run. And I had to keep her warm at the same time as our winters can be extremely cold. From stealthy, sexy mission looks to glamour! Oh, the many dresses and gowns I was lucky to put her in. She was stunning every time.

Who is the most difficult?

None of the characters were difficult to dress! They were all fabulous. I would have to say, though, that it was a bit of a challenge figuring out the right look for “Alex.” Lyndsy, who played Alex has the cutest figure to start and matured into a very sexy woman by the end of the show. I had to ensure that she didn't compete with “Nikita” but still looked more that appealing. The answer was to not go as sophisticated and to connect with a different colour palette.

If you had to dress like one of the characters, who would it be? Do any have a similar sense of style to your own?

 I am, personally, a blend of all of the characters, in terms of my style. I do have a lot of similar silhouettes worn by Nikita and, in fact, Maggie and I would both sometimes, buy for ourselves,  a piece that her character wore on the show. I loved the dresses that “Amanda” wore on the show. She was simply divine to dress as she rocked every dress and fabulous pair of shoes that I offered to her.

What has been your favourite project you've ever worked on? 

 I did a series called Kevin Hill many years ago and it compares with Nikita in terms of how exciting every character was and how different each one looked. The challenge of creating characters through their respective costumes is a great one and takes time to solidify. It’s a process that sometimes continues to evolve. And to that point, as a character evolves, so can their look. The script dictates this and I, as a Costume Designer, must respond. It’s a tie between Kevin Hill and Nikita for the most fun I've had creating costumes. Well, now that I've said that, I’d like to throw “Happy Town” into the mix. A very different show/concept and such fun to create these completely unique people.

And which one are you most proud of?

I am probably most proud of Nikita and perhaps it isn't fair to say that as it was the longest running series for me to design. It was a bit of a survival course. Every episode was like doing a feature. Our seasons were long, 22-23 episodes per season with no hiatus. I was given scripts that called for things I’d never heard of or asked to produce a costume that morphed into something else. I spent sleepless nights attempting to come up with solutions. It happened more than once that I bolted upright in my bed in the middle of the night with the answer. These were some of the best designs I've produced and so it was very fulfilling!

 What trend needs to end?

Skinny jeans just shouldn't be worn by everyone! This seems to be working its way out slowly. That and exposing ones midriff! Oh my! I certainly did it when I was a teenager, but it’s a trend that invites the wrong people to share their abdomens when they clearly shouldn't! Less is more!!!

Do you have a style mantra you live by? Such as Chanel's iconic advice of taking one item off as you leave?

I admire seeing a woman or a man, who knows what works for them. There are some women, who can layer all kinds of jewels and patterns and make it work and I don’t mean in a bohemian way. It’s just natural for some to do it and do it well. There are those, and they comprise the majority of people, who need to simplify their look. Clean lines, texture and colours that flatter, attention to the details, tasteful and simple………..this is the best approach. I absolutely agree with Chanel’s philosophy and have employed it over and over. It’s important to make a statement, but make it clear. If it’s confusing, no one will understand what you are trying to say.

There you have it! Massive thanks to Barbara for her time and if you haven't seen her work in action....what are you waiting for?

Queen of Hearts

Ah, the love, betrayal, scandal and, of course, costumes! CW's Reign is fast becoming one of my favourite shows! A bit of a guilty pleasure, it's entertaining but also so visually stunning! I love that they have taken a stylised approach to the Tudor past rather than aiming at accuracy. I'd prefer obviously stylised historicising to something that pretends to be accurate. And let's be honest, accuracy would be wayyy too costly - Renaissance materials and techniques don't come cheap. Besides, the drama wouldn't be half as entertaining if the costumes weren't this theatrical!

Lay your eyes on the clothes, become addicted to the show and let Mary become queen of your heart too!

#teamfrary

And can we talk about the opening sequence? AMAZING.

Cynthia Bergstrom - A Sense of Style that Slays me.

Cynthia Bergstrom has worked on iconic movies and shows such as Scream, Medium, CSI: Miami and Buffy as a costume designer. She has also worked in a styling capacity for celebrities and magazines. Her long and illustrious career in dress has now given way to a new path in psychology dealing with kids with autism, adults with Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, substance abuse problems and more. She clearly was not content with dressing the world - she now wants to help make it a better place. Buffy is my favourite tv show of all time - I'm obsessed - and Cynthia was lovely enough to take time out from her schedule to talk to me about her career and Buffy, in particular. So exciting! I've been fangirling through the entirety of our correspondance.

1. How did you get into costume design?

I was in my early 20s working at the California Mart as a sales rep for a contemporary women's line. It was a great job, but I had mastered it. I thought, there's got to be more to life than this... I started to think about how I had wanted to be a costume designer. As a kid I would watch Charlie's Angels and all those groovy 70s shows and think, who puts the clothes on the actors? I want to be that person!...so when I knew I was complete with being a sales rep, I told a friend of mine what I really wanted to do with my life. He just happened to be producing a small film starring Virginia Madsen called Zombie High. He asked me to come on board as his costume designer. I knew from the moment I read the first page of the script that I had found my calling. I felt right at home. From there the different department heads showed me how to breakdown a script, devise a budget, put together the continuity book, etc. It was a blast. I also became the stunt double for Virginia. I was so young and so excited. It was a great intro into the business.

2. What projects/shows are you most proud of?

I loved my work on Scream. It was iconic in many ways. But really, I am most proud of my work on Buffy. I'll never forget when I first got the show. I had never designed for television before. My background was film. In film there is a long prep time, lots of meetings and lots of discussions about who is going to wear what for each scene. Film is incredibly collaborative. When I got to Buffy, I soon realized that the pace was quite different. It was at warp speed by comparison. I knew that I had to move quickly and efficiently. It was sink or swim or rather swim fast or drown. I knew I had to put together a really sharp team and I did. I had to make some rather tough decisions in order to keep things flowing and moving. In film, I might have 4-8 weeks or more to prep a 2 hour movie. In TV, I had 8 days to prep an hour long show. It was like designing with roller blades on...so because of that I am really proud of the work produced. Many of the costumes were designed from an idea in my mind and then custom built. I loved creating new worlds on a weekly basis. I was really stretched as a designer. I remember the Halloween episode in season 2, I think it was episode 6 or something. Buffy becomes a southern belle from the 1860s. The dress I designed for her was gorgeous. I knew at that point, after that episode, that I could do anything that was presented to me. I had so many costumes to design and actors to dress in that episode. The organization of it all was intense but thankfully to my amazing team, we pulled if off knowing that we could do anything.

Princess Buffy

3. Did you enjoy Buffy as a show? Did you watch it? Which season was your favourite?

I did catch Buffy the first season it was on. At first I was turned off by the look of the show so I didn't watch it. It seemed dark. But one night there was nothing else on so I watched. As I was watching I had the distinct feeling that I was supposed to be working on that show. A few days later my agent called me with the interview and the rest is history. I don't really have a favorite season. I loved them all because they were all so different.

4. Which was your favourite to work on?

I loved every episode. Each was fun, creative, challenging and different. Each episode was it's own unique character.

5. Who was the most interesting character to dress?

I loved the ease of dressing Willow. There was always something for her character, to this day I still find perfect Willow pieces in the stores. I loved dressing Angel. I went to all these cool rock n roll stores in LA where I had a personal connection with the owners, it was great fun. Buffy was so hip and stylish, her character was always evolving and had many different needs. It was so exciting when I would find something interesting and unique.

Nineties Willow

6. You worked on the show from season two so you dressed Buffy as she moved from teenager to adult, how did you make her wardrobe fit with her age accordingly?

Each year I changed her wardrobe according to what her character arc was. Each season there was a different theme that Buffy experienced so her wardrobe was predicated upon the mood and tone of the season. And of course, it was like buying new school clothes each year where fashion somewhat dictated how the kids would dress. I wanted Buffy to wear the latest in fashion and be on point with the trends including setting the trend which she did quite often. She definitely had her school clothes and her fight clothes. As she matured, of course some of the choices matured with her as far as styling, cut, color, etc. At the end of season 6, she was certainly a different person than she was at the beginning of season 2. She went from a sophomore in high school to a college senior whose boyfriend was in a secret military unit...and then of course there was Spike who also became a love interest. She went from a teen to a woman. It was important to see through the eyes of a teen growing into the woman that she became and reflect that in her styling choices.

Valley-Girl Buffy.

7. How did you make her changes in style reflect changes in her character and different story arcs?

Her wardrobe became more serious as time went on for her story arc. She started out in the first two seasons wearing mini-skirts and super bright colors. Her clothing reflected an innocence and youthful charm. As she accepted her calling and began her training and fighting into the night her costumes became more about function and a reflection of what was going on internally. When Dawn showed up and her mother died, there was a huge shift from being a teenage girl to a woman who was just trying to hold it all together. Not only her life but and her own personal world but literally the entire world! She wore darker, more serious pieces and cozier clothing that gave the feeling of self-protection. Almost as if she had become closed off to the those around her and she did. Especially after she came back from having been dead.

c. Season Six

8. Which celebrities do you most enjoy styling?

I loved working with Katie Holmes, Katherine Heigl, Michelle Williams, Naomi Watts, Jamie Foxx, David Boreanaz...some of my absolute favorites are old timers like Jack Lemmon, Debbie Reynolds, George Carlin...I have never laughed as hard as I did with George Carlin. What an amazing man he was.

9. Will costume design always be your first love or does styling for editorials etc. compete for your affection?

It's very interesting that you ask this because after 25 years as a Costume Designer and Stylist I have retired my wardrobe rack ;-) But to answer your question, I always loved costume design way more than styling for photo shoots, videos, commercials and editorial. As a stylist, I made a lot more money but to me it wasn't as creative or all-encompassing. I loved running my department and being part of a collaborative team. I loved taking the written word from the script and transforming it into a visualization of the writers work and bringing to life the vision of the director. I loved helping the actors to feel that they were the characters they were playing by way of costume. One of the greatest compliments I ever received was when an actor would tell me that his or her costume I designed helped them to feel who their character was and thus become them. I loved the creative process of dreaming up costume ideas in my mind and researching the character or time period, etc. To me it was far more stimulating and fulfilling than styling. And so now, I have become a psychologist. I kind of always was one as a costume designer, now I just have a Master's degree that states it. This too is an achievement of a dream of mine.

10. And finally, what movies and shows have costume design that really inspire you? In the past and at present?

North By Northwest. I loved the way Cary Grant and Eva-Marie Saint complimented each other with their look and color palette. I loved Karen Patch's work in The Royal Tennebaums. The costumes certainly helped to tell the story of who these people were. It was hilarious. I always, always love the work of Colleen Atwood. Everything she does is simply amazing from Silence of The Lambs, Sleepy Hollow, Planet of The Apes, Chicago, Sweeney Todd, Snow White and The Huntsman, Public Enemies and the list goes on.

Snow White and the Huntsman.